Meet One of Australia's Oldest Wine-Growing Families

Hugh Hamilton Wines know how to get the most out of McLaren Vale's diverse soils.
Hannah Valmadre
September 23, 2015

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Five generations back, the Hamilton family planted some of the first vineyards in South Australia. It was 1837, a mere year after the arrival of European settlers in the state, and to this day they continue to produce top-quality, award-winning wine under the name Hugh Hamilton Wines.

Mary Hamilton, Hugh Hamilton’s daughter, has been the CEO for the last seven years and explains that her father has always been considered the black sheep of the Hamilton flock. “He was a very spirited young boy and got up to a fair bit of mischief," she says. "He was never going to be corralled into anything and has always remained an elusive character.” Hugh’s lively sense of humour and his ability to march to the beat of his own drum has never wavered, so it makes sense then that the wines have names such as The Scallywag Chardonnay and The Scoundrel Tempranillo.

Quality, flavoursome wine is the number one priority for Hugh Hamilton Wines and they have ensured this by sourcing grapes from their three vineyards. McLaren Vale hosts perfect conditions for ripening grapes and viticulture, as it’s located between the Adelaide Hills and the coast. “Most people are not aware of this, but McLaren Vale has the most diverse geology of any wine region in the world,” explains Hamilton.

Each of the three vineyards have very different soil types which greatly influence the flavour of the grapes, from the black clay at their cellar door vineyard, producing darker-style shiraz (think bitter dark chocolate and black olives) to their next vineyard 500 meters down the road that produces more red-fruit flavours due to a different soil type and climate. Hamilton refers to this as their "big comfortable red velvet chair" with a generous and juicy yield.

As part of the FreeWines app, Hugh Hamilton Wines have contributed two of their expert drops; 'The Trickster' Pinot Grigio and 'The Rascal' Shiraz. The Trickster is made from grapes sourced from the Adelaide Hills and came about due to Hugh’s love of freshly shucked oysters and his desire to create a wine that would pair with it perfectly. Described as “racy, upbeat and brisk,” Hamilton would recommend pairing this wine with seafood dishes such as salt and pepper squid, prawns and, of course, fresh oysters. The Rascal, described as “the quintessential McLaren Vale Shiraz, with lots of fruit ripeness but also elegance,” goes beautifully with a scotch fillet or beef casserole.

When it comes to selecting a wine for herself, Mary is often influenced by her mood first, rather than having a constant go-to drop. At the moment Hamilton is particularly taken with the medium-bodied 'The Mongrel' Sangiovese, “It’s got lots of lovely, juicy cherry-flavoured fruit, and it tends to be a great partner with the food I cook, which is often Mediterranean or Middle Eastern.”

Published on September 23, 2015 by Hannah Valmadre
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