In case you haven’t heard by now, Gastro Park rocks. Clever food creates surprises at every course.

In case you haven’t heard by now, Gastro Park rocks. Food lovers around Sydney are fixated on how bad the name is and how incredible the food is. The slogan rings true: Gastro Park is indeed 'a fairground of deliciousness'. Clever food creates surprises at every course but without too many of those gimmicks we’ve become tired of with molecular, too-clever-by-half food. Put it this way: you can still recognise your fish beneath its calamari crackling and ink-black prawn cracker.

It all starts when you order a Putanesca Wafer to begin (order one each or there will be fights). It arrives as a crispy, see through parmesan artwork, presented in a rock. Trust me, it works. Next up is the dish you will remember for all time, the Liquid Butternut Gnocchi with Mushroom Consommé. These bright yellow liquid spheres have the rich consommé poured over them at the table, and they literally pop delicious pumpkin-ness in your mouth. King Fish and Tuna Carpaccio with Lime and Tomato has less wow factor but is picture perfect, and it simply slips down. Head chef Grant King, ex-Pier, hasn’t lost his touch with fish. The now-renowned Crispy-Scaled Snapper, surrounded by all sorts of magical accompaniments, is incredible and you should try it - but Lamb Saddle with textures of Cauliflower and Mushroom is equally fantastic for a delicate meat fix.

Any chef this clever and inventive surely goes to town with dessert, but Gastro Park also has a really great little cheese list. After all the intensity of the meal, it's nice to kick back with a slice of cheddar - and an exceptional once at that.

The experienced wait staff and the room itself can be slightly cold, but you’ll get over this as soon as that putanesca wafer lands on your table. It's simple really: don’t go for the name or the room, but most definitely go for the food.

Published on August 01, 2011 by Jeanine Bribosia

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