The Ten Best American Diners in Sydney

Although our arteries may be crying foul, we in Sydney have become well and truly besotted with American food. From the nostalgia of 1950s milkbars to the soul-steeling heartiness of Southern cuisine, there's a certain homey, convivial charm we can't resist. And though we may be over establishments that borrow a little too directly from their US counterparts, there are others that continue to surprise and impress us.

The best places, the ones on this list, have risen above imitation and novelty, and they delve deeper into American food than mere burgers. Enjoy one tonight and celebrate America's Fourth of July. Just remember: cookies (deep-fried and dolloped with spicy mayo) are a sometimes food.

1. Hartsyard

There is no denying Hartsyard's heritage; it is palpably American in taste, substance and style. As soon as you push open the glass door, the smell of hickory smoked pork greets you with open arms. You'd be forgiven for thinking you had mistakenly stumbled across a classic American backyard cook-out, but that's what’s beautiful about this Newtown newcomer. You never know what to expect. Start with the poutine ($23) for a no-holds-barred introduction to American cuisine that borrows generously from the Bible Belt, French Canada and the friction between urban and rural dining.

2. Soda Factory

What you're looking for is a kitschy neon sign reading 'Bobby’s Boss Dogs'. Bobby’s draws the comparison to New York's Crif Dogs, the entrance to clandestine East Village cocktail lounge PDT. Pull on the handle of the Coke Machine and you're inside The Soda Factory — a dimly lit industrial expanse lined with inviting booths and comfy mid-century sofas. For just $9, the Johnny Drama (beef sausage topped with bacon, sour cream, avocado and tomato salsa) straddles the line between gourmet and good old-fashioned grub.

3. Marly Kitchen

Chicken and waffles are a classic southern American breakfast combination that makes no sense to us Australians. Deep-fried chicken? Served with waffles? Drizzled in gravy? It just doesn't compute. And it's great that the Marly Kitchen in the hotel's new Garden Bar is doing it, because the risk, complexity and creativity is a foil to the many safe options around town where American equals burger. Choose from crispy buttermilk deep-fried chicken, smoked pulled pork, cheesy BBQ sirloin or Mexican lentil toppings ($8) for the waffles, or try something from the constantly changing special board, featuring more sophisticated options such as crispy skin roasted kingfish with tender confit kipfler potatoes and a finger-licking bushpepper aioli ($26).

4. Eathouse Diner

One of the originals, and still one of the best. The red vinyl stools around a curved bar and crimson walls with a chalkboard menu on the wall conjure 1950s Americana, but there's no schtick here. The menu features Southern classics that aren't too heavy, such as fried okra in corn maize batter with spicy chipotle and tomato sauce and the delicious spicy Creole gumbo, as well as dishes with a more English or Australian heritage. The fun atmosphere and seriously good food means that, years in, this place is still full most nights of the week.

5. Miss Peaches Soul Food Kitchen

Step off Missenden Road in Newtown and be transported to a pseudo-Louisiana where Miss Peaches and her Soul Food Kitchen are waiting. The spacious brick bar has old-school Southern charm with plenty of comfy booths, a balcony overlooking the hustle and bustle of King Street below, plus a blues-infused vinyl collection to get any feet dancing. The menu is the antithesis of all diets and not for the faint of heart. Think cornbread sliders filled with deep-fried mac and cheese, chicken or beef short rib (3 for $18), crispy tater tots with maple bacon ketchup ($8) or flaky crawfish pies ($12). The blackened fish ($15) is spiced up nice and jerky and a real standout of the menu.

6. Santa Barbara

With its Californian atmosphere (at the Coke sign junction of King's Cross, it even feels like a highway) and lengthy menu of American/Asian/Tex-Mex/Pacific fusion, Santa Barbara is a bit of a diversion from the American norm. From the BBQ, the Coke Can Chicken ($18) is enough to feed a small army, and goes well with some jerk prawn and papaya salad ($14).

7. The Dip

Founder Andrew Levins' love of food apparently began on a family holiday to Memphis. He's road tested and experimented with his recipes at legendary barbeques for family and friends, and now both family and friends are involved on the floor. There couldn't be a better fit for the stucco booths and jukebox tunes of the Goodgod's front room. The menu is heavily themed and, thankfully, priced to reflect the diner vibe. You want to get the Lev's Dawg, a kosher hotdog topped with chipotle mayo, fresh tomato salsa, grilled yellow peppers and American mustard and definitely, definitely follow up with an ice-cream sandwich.

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8. Hinky Dinks

Step off Darlinghurst Road and into the 1950s. The boy's hair is quaffed, the floor is black-and-white chequered, and creamy, frozen drinks come in tall, frosted sundae glasses. Except it's like an American adult milk bar because here, those drinks have (a lot of) bourbon in them. It is indeed a very specific theme here. Every detail has been considered, from the uniforms and cherry-red bar stools to the original 1950s Crosley fridge that took four people to move. But the best part about Hinky Dinks, and the part that prevents it from falling into the Disney theme category, is the staff. They are passionate bartenders and in such a small space they really make it a warm and fun experience.

9. The Bourbon

Louisiana Creole food is a mishmash of different cultures, like the population of New Orleans. French, Spanish, African, Italian and Portuguese are thrown into the mix, with jambalaya the signature dish. From the oyster bar, the theme continues with grilled jumbo shrimp ($24) in creole butter and spiced salt. A gumbo with a thick, spicy duck broth and smoked sausage ($18) and clam and corn chowder ($22) pop out from the soup menu. It's interesting, amid the glittery surroundings, to eat this food that has come from simple origins. But then New Orleans does have a thriving drinking scene amongst strip joints and red light shops, so perhaps this is the ideal location.

10. Jazz City Milk Bar

To end with? Dessert, of course. Try the banana cream pie, one of our favourite pies in Sydney, combining a foolproof balance between generous servings of banana, sweet caramel and cream. Part of the philosophy of the milk bar is for people to visit with their friends to enjoy American sweet delicacies like pies, cookies, cotton candy and ice cream sandwiches. However, they've also included dinner specialities like gourmet burgers and hot dogs as well as more adventurous dishes like a New Orleans BBQ Shrimp ($28) and A&W Root Beer Braised Chuck Steak ($24).

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By the Concrete Playground team.