Restless diners will discover a new menu every week at this nimble Italian eatery. No carbocide required.

A clean, modern, polished concrete corridor leads to a bustling dining room where the kitchen aromas and buzz of conversation kick your senses into gear. A quiet alley that you have probably never driven down but would have passed a thousand times on the border of Surry Hills and Darlinghurst, hides this modern Italian eatery.

‘I am going to commit carbocide tonight,’ my uninitiated carbaphobic housemate said as our group was seated. Beachgoers take note: the inventive, often intensely flavoured creations on the menu at Berta are never weighed down by stodgy pasta, doughy pizza or piles of laborious filling potatoes.

The long list of dishes are most often light, if sometimes rich. They range in sizes and vary from week to week so there is always something new for the most restless of eaters. Berta is a restaurant for sharing, 2 or 3 dishes per person is usually plenty and should have taken your palate on an immensely satisfying culinary trip by the time you arrive at the trio of bay leaf/buffalo milk, apple/gin and blood orange gelati.

Italian wine is somewhat of a specialty of head chef and owner Andrew Cibej so make an effort to stray from your Menabrea/vodka soda. If for you eating out is about discovering new combinations of flavour, texture and kitchen technique at prices that won't have you living off tins of tuna until next pay day then put Berta somewhere near the top of your list of places to go.

Published on March 17, 2011 by Daniel Voysey

Tap and select Add to Home Screen to access Concrete Playground easily next time. x