You'd be hard pressed to find food this good and fast in any bricks and mortar establishment in Sydney.
Why would two young fine-dining chefs pack in their juliennes and quenelles for a pork bun on wheels? Perhaps looking around them at well-loved institutions such as Bilson’s, Montpellier Public House (formerly Balzac), Assiette and Manly Pavilion closing their doors, a more humble van seems positively sensible. Stuart Magill of Testsuya’s and Brenton Balicki of Quay certainly bring some posh credentials to their Eat Art Truck, but the food is frippery free - tasty, simple and lush.
The truck features a back panel of changing street art, with Phibs as the inaugural artist. If street art makes you feel slightly odd (like you’ve somehow woken up in East Brunswick in a pair of burgundy chinos…) then stay around the front of the truck and focus on the delicious food, friendly staff and the shiny Electrolux induction kitchen.
Because Sydney belongs to a rule-loving nation, the truck is restricted to specific trading locations including Queen’s Square, Customs House forecourt and Pitt Street Mall. So no, you may not have them pull up outside your house on a Saturday morning to tend to your hangover. If it were an option, however, you’d definitely be placing a bulk order for five smoky pulled pork buns with mustard cabbage ($12) followed promptly by equal quantities of the BBQ beef bun and hot sauce ($12). If in a slightly more civilised mood, you might opt for the delicate annindofu (almond curd) with toasted coconut and pineapple ($6).
Fantasies aside, you’d be hard pressed to find food this good and fast in any bricks and mortar establishment in Sydney. They’re ambitiously aiming for a five minute turn around for each order – that’s up there with McDonald’s speed, minus the double coronary. Make the effort, get off the couch and get yourself some.
Published on June 21, 2012 by Jessica Keath