A Weekender's Guide to Wollongong

If there's one place in New South Wales — well, besides Sydney — that's embraced the state's newly liberated small bar culture, it's Wollongong. Like that of the harbour city, The Gong's night life used to be all about rowdy pubs and dance clubs. Now, we're not saying there's anything wrong with that — sometimes, there's no better way to end a working week than sinking a few and tutting like you're Taylor Swift in utter anonymity — but, like the great Latin writer Publilius Syrus quipped: "The most delightful pleasures cloy without variety".

And during the past decade Wollongong, which you'll find just a 90-minute drive south of Sydney, has diversified. In the city's easily walkable centre, you'll stumble across a bluesy whiskey den, a laneway warehouse plastered with street art, a pocket-sized wine bar with a giant-sized wine list, a hatted hideaway serving French degustations and a waterfront pub championing microbrews. And that's just the start of it.

Beyond the streetscape, there are beaches, mountains and woodlands galore. In one weekend, you can ride a horse through rainforest, picnic by a waterfall, cruise clifftops on the back of a Harley, loop de loop in a WW2 biplane and, needless to say, take your pick of beaches to swim at.

Speaking of which, Wollongong's sandy coastline gives you two options, north and south of Flagstaff Point. On one side, there's the calm, swimmer-friendly North Beach, while on the other is the wild, 3.1-kilometre long City Beach. For more, skip town to visit the string of seaside villages that make up the outer northern suburbs, watched over by the spectacular, 400-metre high, sandstone Illawarra Escarpment. Here's your guide to eating, drinking and adventuring your way through a Wollongong sleepover.

Sage Hotel via Wotif

STAY

To wake up just a stumble away from a swim, check into the Sage. Once known as the Chifley and taken over by Silver Needle Hotels in 2015, this four star, 11-storey, 168 room hotel is across the road from City Beach. For fantasy novel-inspiring panoramas of a morning mist-enshrouded Mount Keira, ask for a north facing balcony room or suite. Wherever you are, you'll get invigorating ocean breezes, a super comfy bed, a 40-inch tele and cosy armchairs. When the surf's too rough for a dip, plunge into the spacious lap pool. Buffet brekkie — served on the hotel's Five Islands Terrace — comes with dazzling ocean views, while downstairs at Cold Water Creek Restaurant and Bar, you can slip into a red-cushioned booth anytime and build your own burger.

South Coast Bike Hire

DO

To make zipping around town a cinch, rent a bicycle from South Coast Bike Hire, who'll deliver the bike to your doorstep. Stick to scooting from one bar to another or, if you're keen to counter your excesses with a workout, conquer the waterfront cycleway, which runs between Port Kembla and Thirroul, where you can cool off in a 1930s ocean pool, grab a coffee at Gidget's, browse local art or take a surfing lesson with Illawarra Surf Academy. All in all, Wollongong has 42 kilometres of shared paths.

For more scenery (at a much faster speed) take a High Adrenaline Ride and Fly Tour. Just Cruisin' Tours' Steve Melchior will roll up at your hotel, pop you on the back of his Harley and lead you on a twisting, turning, coast-hugging journey along Grand Pacific Drive, which runs as far north as the Royal National Park. Hold on when you hit Sea Cliff Bridge, a dizzying series of curves suspended 665 metres above the ocean, backdropped by sheer cliffs. If you're travelling with a mate, book the Boom Trike.

Southern Biplanes

Afterwards — or perhaps before — Steve will transport you to Southern Biplane Adventures, where you'll jump aboard a fire truck-red biplane known as Lilly Warra. She's a bonafide World War Two veteran, built in 1943 to perform military aerobatics. Your pilot will strap you into the open-air cockpit and take you soaring hundreds of metres above the Illawarra coastline. Just how gnarly things get is up to you; settle in for a straightforward right-way-up joy flight or order as many tricks as you can handle, from a wingover (a steep climb followed by a sideways fall) to a loop de loop (a 360-degree, upside down turn). To see the Lilly Warra — and hundreds of other stunt planes — in action, head to Wollongong on the weekend of April 30 for the annual Wings Over Illawarra Air Show. And, for a journey through Australia's aviation history, swing by the nearby Historical Aircraft Restoration Society Museum, where you can sit in the cockpit of a Vietnam War fighter jet.

Otford Farm

Done with the adrenaline pumping? Make tracks to Otford Farm to explore at a gentler pace. This Lords of the Rings-esque property is home to 40 or so horses, who spend most of their time roaming freely across its 300 acres, but will cheerfully take you for a ride if you ask nicely. The three-hour Bald Hill Adventure trail ride is a magical journey through dense rainforest, alongside babbling creeks and across open woodlands. You'll stop at the hang gliding mecca of Bald Hill Lookout and the pretty Kellys Falls Picnic Area on the way. Short on time or not ready to commit to 180 minutes on horseback? Book a one- or two-hour stroll instead.

Caveau

EAT

UK-born Peter Sheppard was just a kid when he decided to become a chef. Some years later, after training at Sydney's Banc, he moved to Wollongong, where he opened Caveau in 2004. In 2005, his French-inspired creations earned a Good Food and Travel Guide Chef Hat — and they've won one every single year since then. Any day of the week, plonk down on a turquoise polka dot chair in one of the hushed, dark dining rooms and work your way through a seven-course degustation. Like the furniture, the plates are splashed with bright colours, from brilliant purple baby beets to bright red heirloom tomatoes to vibrant warrigal greens. Sheppard sources local, organic produce and pursues a nose-to-tail philosophy, ensuring nothing is wasted. Vegetarians can expect to be treated with equal respect as carnivores; the meat-free degustation is not just an afterthought, but a masterpiece in itself.

For a more casual chow down in an epic setting, there's Three Chimneys. Hidden down an alleyway and covered in street art, it's a former warehouse turned hospitality kingdom, incorporating not only a restaurant and bar, but also a coffee roastery, bakery and live music venue. Flop onto a corner couch and keep to yourself, get loud at a communal table or hit the dancefloor. The share plate menu is made up of tasty, tasty morsels in generous portions, from 12-hour braised lamb sliders to crumbed camembert with cranberry sauce.

Diggies

Several cafes serve up high quality breakfasts and lunches. To start your morning right — that is, overlooking North Beach — reserve a spot at Diggies. Local brothers Stan and Aaron Crinis have been feeding ravenous surfers in this airy, heritage-listed, former cottage for more than a decade. Dig into brioche toast with strawberry compote and mascarpone cheese or sweet corn fritters with a poached egg, sour cream, smoked salmon and a rocket and zucchini salad, and you'll be ready for anything the day throws at you.

Humber

At Humber, a three-level, triangular cafe-bar in an 80-year-old building, slide onto a jade banquette and tuck into a plate of slow-baked ocean trout with eggs, or a dish called Mushroom Thyme, which features five types of local mushies. At least 50 percent of all produce comes from within a 100-kilometre radius. On the third floor, there's a lovely, laidback rooftop bar serving cocktails and tapas by evening. Throughout April, the eatery will hold Humberfest, which will see a slew of special events, from yoga lessons to mixology classes to movie nights, come to life.

lee and me

Just down the road in an 1890s terrace house, you'll find lee and me, recognisable from the bicycle in the window. There's a cafe downstairs and a retail space called THE STORE upstairs. So, you can contemplate buying fresh flowers and cool furniture, in between nibbling away on a shredded chicken sub with pickled carrot, or a roast lamb toastie with baba ghanoush, onion jam and Gruyère. Owners Benny and Naomi Hudson have a second outpost in the form of laneway burger joint His Boy Elroy, which turns classics into fun new inventions. The Heisenburg-er, for example, is packed with southern fried chicken, iceberg lettuce, hot sauce and a secret blue sauce.

Take the Grand Pacific Drive back to Sydney to stop in at Thirroul (we recommend Postmans Quarter in an old 19th century building that used to house a bank) and/or one of the most spectacularly-located pubs in Australia, The Scarborough Hotel. Passing by on a clear day? Bags a table on the top floor terrace, order a seafood plate and a bottle of sparkling, and don't make any plans to go anywhere else until sundown. Should you miss out on the terrace, a table in the vast, grassy beer garden is a happy second prize — and there are Pacific Island-style thatched huts for groups.

The Throsby

DRINK

For a pre-dinner wine or a quiet chat, slip into The Throsby, a 50-seater bar that's been keeping locals hydrated since December 2014. Owners Erick Zevallos and Maddie Sullivan have taken care of every detail, from the Scandi-style high stools to the hanging plants to the 53 variety-strong wine list showcasing small winemakers from all over the world. Later on, venture to dimly-lit Howlin' Wolf to sample the ever-changing 100+ whisky collection — and if you visit on Thursday, Friday or Saturday night, you'll be able to kick back to live music.

Illawarra Brewing Co.

Meanwhile, you'll get a view with your brew with a view at The Illawarra Brewery, just opposite City Beach (and not far from the Sage Hotel). Claim an outdoor seat and work your way through a tasting paddle, which covers a handful of offerings from the Illawarra Brewing Company brewhouse. In-house bistro Smoking Barrels dishes up a stack of exceptionally moreish American-style creations, including a salt and chilli-fried soft shell crab burger and sticky barbecue hot wings with smoked mayo. If you're wondering why the meat's so full of flavour, it's all slow-cooked in their custom made, Texan-style smoker.

To find out more about the brewhouse, drop by its headquarters in North Wollongong, where you'll meet brewer Dave McGrath, watch the brewing process in motion and taste to your heart's content. Walking in, you'll notice a basketball hoop — manage three slam dunks and you'll be taking home a free growler, filled with your beer of choice. The Chuck Norris is very, very hard to go past.

Jonathan Mueller via Flickr

LET'S DO THIS; GIVE ME THE DETAILS

Wollongong is about 90 minutes south of Sydney. You can drive or take the South Coast Line train from Sydney's Central Station to Wollongong Station.

Jasmine travelled as a guest of Destination NSW. Top image: Maksym Kozlenko via Wikimedia Commons.