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TRAVEL & LEISURE

A Food and Wine Lover's Guide to Adelaide

There's more to Adelaide than just great wine — head south to explore underground bars, laneway restaurants and jam-packed markets.
By Samantha Teague
August 02, 2018
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A Food and Wine Lover's Guide to Adelaide

There's more to Adelaide than just great wine — head south to explore underground bars, laneway restaurants and jam-packed markets.
By Samantha Teague
August 02, 2018
  shares

in partnership with

Hidden underground bars, award-winning restaurants, dozens of standout laneway cafes and record stores, Adelaide has more than just delicious wine (although it has a lot of that, too). There are so many places to explore and experiences to be had in this history-rich city, you may struggle to fit it all into one weekend — as they say: so little time, so much to eat. But, we're here to help. Together with the southaustralia.com, we've created this comprehensive guide to the SA capital — so you can spend more time drinking cocktails, and less time wandering lost down backstreets.

Adelaide is also so much more than just the CBD, too, so if you have the time, immerse yourself in the Fleurieu Peninsula, Clare Valley and the Limestone Coast. There's plenty of wine to be tasted and glamping to be done.

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Africola, Andre Castellucci

EAT

Once you've jumped off the plane, your first stop should be Exchange Specialty Coffee. Serving up some of the best coffee in the country, the acclaimed cafe is tucked away behind Rundle Street. Stop here for a brew — a Melbourne-roasted Brazilian with cherry notes, perhaps — and the cafe's take on a reuben sandwich, and you'll be fuelled and ready to tackle the rest of the city. Well, fuelled and prepared to eat more.

While you're on the east side of town — for out-of-towners, that's down near Rundle Street and the aptly named East Terrace — stop by the French-inflected all-day eatery Hey Jupiter for escargots and baked camembert, or to the vibrant Kutchi Deli Parwana, which is located literally next door on Ebenezer Place. The latter is serving up Afghani-style street food, such as toasties made with flat bread and stuffed with hummus and lamb kofta, and its signature eggplant curry banjan borani. If the light begins to fade and you still find yourself east head to Adelaide's two most-lauded restaurants: Africola and Orana.

Africola, helmed by Duncan Welgemoed, is serving up North African dishes out of its wood-fired oven, including peri peri chicken with chakalaka relish, pork neck and fried cauliflower. And, whatever you do, don't forget to order a round of the tea sandwiches made with hot chicken dripping.

A stone's throw away are Restaurant Orana and its ground-level offshoot Bistro Blackwood, both run by the acclaimed chef-owner Jock Zonfrillo. Orana is serving up a degustation-only menu, spattered with native ingredients, which, alongside with its design, impeccable service and wine list, snagged it Gourmet Traveller's 2018 restaurant of the year. That said, it doesn't come cheap, and if you don't have the cash to splash you'll be happy downstairs in the bistro digging into hog's head mac 'n' cheese and fire-pit smoked pumpkin.

On the opposite side of the city — yes, near West Terrace — restaurants are a touch more casual, more snack-driven, and where you want to head before or after drinks. Behind a neon-lit entrance on Leigh Street, you'll find mod-Asian fare cooked over fire at Shōbōsho — and its newly opened spin-off, the eight-seater yakitori bar Shō.

Hop one street over to the adjacent Peel Street, and enjoy Southeast Asian street food and natural wine at Gondola Gondola, woodfired burgers, steaks and ribs at the upstairs Bread and Bone and refined yet simple fare made from quality local ingredients at Peel St.

Around the corner, Sunny's Pizza — run by a group of hospitality long-timers — does what it says on the packet: pizza. It serves them topped with traditional and untraditional ingredients — San Marzano tomatoes, pork fennel sausage, lamb and tahini — and alongside creative cocktails. It also has a disco ball, so you can stay and dance till the wee hours.

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Pink Moon Saloon

DRINK

Adelaide's west end doesn't just have fancy food, either, the number of bars hidden down laneways, in basements and up hard-to-find staircases rivals even Melbourne's busiest inner city streets. And we suggest you start at Pink Moon Saloon, a narrow A-frame bar, which has picked up a neat collection of gongs for its drinks and design. It even has a kitchen in the back, if you want to linger over brisket or grilled haloumi.

Underground — and through a hidden door — is art deco bar Maybe Mae. Located in a passage between Peel and Leigh Street, the bar is lined with green leather banquettes and serves up seasonal cocktails alongside the tastiest complimentary bar snack in the city: curry powder-fried Nutri Grain and peanuts (trust us, it tastes better than it sounds). West end stalwarts Udaberri and Clever Little Tailor mix fun, refined cocktails with finesse, and Florence Rooftop's sprawling plant-filled rooftop is a quiet hideaway from the hustle and bustle below.

Also worth visiting on the western side is sailor-themed Hains & Co, which is lined with plenty of boating paraphernalia — and lots of rum.

NOLA

Wander back east and Adelaide's seemingly never-ending collection of quality small bars continues. Overlooking Ebenezer Place, and located in a thoughtfully fitout archway, is the multi-level Mr Goodbar. Its cocktails are strong and its vibe is inspired by the Deep South.

On the opposite side of Rundle Street (well, underneath it) you'll encounter Hellbound. Fortunately, when you walk down its steps you won't enter purgatory — you'll encounter plenty of great wine curated by industry expert Mark Reginato.

When you're ready to resurface, make a beeline for NOLA, a New Orleans-inspired jazz, whiskey and craft beer bar, speckled with banquettes, touches of turquoise and neon. A few metres away is wine-aficionado Mother Vine, serving up an impressive selection of local and international wines, tapas and cheeses. It's also opposite Adelaide CBD's best bottle shop, but we'll get to that in a second.

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2KW, Jonathan Van de Knapp

DO

The CBD's best bottle shop. If we're to get technical, East End Cellars has a rep as one of the country's best bottle shops — with an impressive range of local, hard-to-find wines, spirits and craft brews. It often holds free tastings, too, so keep on eye on the website while you're there.

2KW is a must-visit for all Adelaide first- (second- or third-) timers. Located on the eighth storey of a historic building, it has some of the best views across the city. Its drinks and food menu are also hard to pass up — and give you more time to soak up the view.

Smelly Cheese Shop

The historic Adelaide Central Markets, established in 1869, is a rite of passage for all visitors to Adelaide. Filled with hawking greengrocers, fishmongers and bratwurst-vendors, the Markets are often packed — especially on weekends. Make your way through the crowd to the much-loved Smelly Cheese Shop (yes, they'll let you taste some), Poh Ling Yeow's Jamface and Le Souk for fresh dates and racks upon racks of spices.

If now, you need a break from eating and drinking, we don't blame you. Luckily, Adelaide has another lesser-known gift hidden up its sleeve — its impressive collection of record stores. Rerun Record & Photography, hidden inside Adelaide's Market Bazaar, stocks a massive collection of retro records, alongside historic Adelaide photos and vintage cameras. Also in the city is the recently opened Streetlight Adelaide, while Wolfies Records and Porthole Records are located further out, but both worth making tracks for.cp-line

Majestic Minima Hotel

SLEEP

When you've finished eating, drinking and packing your bags full of vinyls, you'll want to rest your weary head — and prepare to do it all again tomorrow. If you've got the cash, splash out on the most elegant option, The Mayfair Hotel. The heritage-listed building is home to 170 luxe suites, gym and its own rooftop bar, Hennessy Rooftop Bar.

Slightly more affordable, but equally central, are the Majestic Rooftop Hotel and Adina Apartment Hotel Adelaide Treasury — both located in walking distance of all the aforementioned hot spots.

If you're willing to travel a touch out of the city, you can snag an eclectic art-filled room at North Adelaide's Majestic Minima Hotel for around $100 a night.

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To discover more of Adelaide and South Australia, head to SATC.

Top image: Pink Moon Saloon

Published on August 02, 2018 by Samantha Teague

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