Few of today's new restaurants boast the same kind of pedigree as Fitzroy North's most recent addition, Ryne. Making its home within a smart, 60-seat space on St George's Road, the fine diner is the latest venture from Donovan Cooke, the trailblazing chef behind such culinary greats as Est Est Est and seafood-focused Crown restaurant The Atlantic. He's joined forces with with long-time colleague and friend Alex Law (The Atlantic, The Royal Hong Kong Jockey Club) to deliver a contemporary take on classic French fare.
Named for an Anglo-Saxon word referring to a course that's continuously moving forwards, Ryne offers Cooke the chance to return to his favourite kind of work, crafting honest yet refined dishes within an intimate setting.
Open only for dinner, Ryne keeps the decision-making to a minimum, offering simply a two-course ($65), three-course ($80) and seven-course ($150) tasting menu. The starting lineup is one big celebration of spring, featuring plates like smoked rainbow trout with dashi-infused daikon and horseradish, and marron scented with orange and teamed with a pea panna cotta.
Meanwhile, the wine list is geared towards small producers, pulling together a thoughtful mix of international and local gems.
Find Ryne at 203-205 St Georges Rd, Fitzroy North.