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FOOD & DRINK

Duke of Kerr

Located on a quiet corner in Fitzroy, this neighbourhood cafe is serving up all-day breakfast and booze, seven days a week.
By Jo Rittey
November 14, 2018
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Duke of Kerr

Located on a quiet corner in Fitzroy, this neighbourhood cafe is serving up all-day breakfast and booze, seven days a week.
By Jo Rittey
November 14, 2018
  shares

You'd be pretty happy if you lived in the apartments above Duke of Kerr. Or, in fact, anywhere in the vicinity. It's the kind of neighbourhood cafe you want as your local.

Located on quiet, mostly residential block in Fitzroy, the cafe feels a little bit Parisian, well, in a tucked-down-a-leafy-Parisian-side-street way. Perhaps it's the tastefulness of it all — stylish in its simplicity and quietly elegant — channeling the casual chic, less-is-more vibe the French do so well.

But, apart from the ambiance, it's not really French at all. Inside, there's funk soul playing and the decor is all wood, dark tables and chairs and bi-fold glass doors on two sides of the room.

A collaboration between a few hospitality stalwarts, Duchess of Spotswood's Andy Gale, St Ali's Mark Richardson and Bertie's Butcher's Darren Moncrieff, it's serving up up all-day breakfasts that are available after-dark on Fridays and Saturdays, too.

While we think you'd be content eating the sweetcorn and zucchini fritters at any hour — they're flavoursome and light, and come with perfectly poached eggs, avocado salsa and a summery tasting coriander salad ($19) — once the sun has set, you might be happier lingering over charcuterie and a glass of rosé, or a 250-gram Porterhouse steak with shoestring fries ($24.50).

You also have the option to get a little bit architectural with the menu, and build your own breakfast from a long list of add-ons, including slab-cut bacon, mushrooms, black pudding and croquettes.

Drinks are served all day, too, and if you subscribe to the "it's after noon somewhere in the world" philosophy, order The Original Bastard ($12) bloody mary or a glass of Tasmanian sparkling wine. If you don't, the locally roasted Clark Street coffee will see you through.

The cafe has't yet been open a year, but a perennial favourite already (that apparently can't come off the menu) is the Scotch Woodcock ($15.50): a seemingly simple dish of scrambled eggs with Gentleman's Relish (anchovy paste) and white anchovies.

The bad side to Duke of Kerr is that it's hard to decide what to order, and, once you have, food envy should be expected. But the great thing about neighbourhood eateries is that you can always come back.

Images: Kate Shanasy.

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