If you can’t do French, Italian makes for a mighty fine substitute. While admittedly this no-reservations restaurant can get busy as well, it’s also close by, and there’s no harm popping your head in to check. Specialising in Tuscany’s top chop, bistecca alla Fiorentina, steak dominates the menu, with Flintstones-sized T-bones cooked over smouldering olive branches to order. Francophiles will be satisfied with the sides, which include Mediterranean classics, from the pear and blue cheese salad to crisp golden potatoes, and beetroot with wobbly ricotta and a dousing of burnt butter. If you end up at the bar first, keep your appetite in check with the cicchetti menu.
Images: Dominic Loneragan