After more than 60 years of serving top-notch Malaysian, Nonya and Indonesian cuisine to Sydney, The Malaya has officially returned to its roots on George Street in the CBD. This bustling thoroughfare was the restaurant's original location when it first opened in 1963, and now its new home at Grosvenor Place serves as a fitting culmination of its journey. Entering its next chapter under the stewardship of third-generation siblings, Duan and Isabella Wong, guests can expect a similar menu and atmosphere as the restaurant's former King Street Wharf location. Following a successful move, The Malaya's new home brings a host of new possibilities. Spread across two levels, the airy restaurant seats 180 guests, with 60 more on an outdoor terrace. Designed by the Wong family in collaboration with Anouk & Co., a central skylight and floor-to-ceiling windows flood the space with natural light, while cork flooring and birch and black leather furnishings add another natural touch. There's also the addition of a semi-private dining space on the mezzanine level, accommodating 30 guests for intimate celebrations and corporate events. "Being in a more dynamic CBD hub feels like the right next step," says Duan Wong. "We're surrounded by some of the city's best hotels, and there's a steady stream of foot traffic from Circular Quay down George Street. It brings a new energy to the restaurant — and to our team." Over the decades, The Malaya's menu has shifted alongside Sydney's evolving culture and cuisine. While Duan and Isabella are bringing some notable changes to the new location, diners can still expect the same bold flavours that have come to define the restaurant. Drawing largely from Malaysian cuisine with a particular focus on Nonya traditions, vibrant and spicy dishes lead the menu. However, many of the restaurant's beloved ever-present staples remain, including the original Malaya curry, the laksa, and the pork or prawn sambol. Serving as a symbol of The Mayala's heritage, these recipes have remained unchanged since 1963. However, one point of difference coming to the Grosvenor Place location is a focus on seafood. For instance, XO pipis and kam heong mud crab are now permanent fixtures on the menu. There are also new options for diners seeking a light meal, with recent additions like the cold beef salad and satay skewers making for sweet and herbaceous dining that won't leave you feeling stuffed. Vegetarian diners also have a greater range to choose from, with deep-fried Szechuan eggplant joined by creamy kerabu vegetables, featuring Vietnamese mint and ginger flower. While the full beverage offering is being finalised, Duan and Isabella have teamed up with respected sommelier Eleonora Vaccarini to reimagine the wine list. Riesling is now a major focus, with German and Australian producers given a standout spot. Approachability hasn't been overlooked either, as 15 bottles are poured by the glass. The cocktail menu is also refreshed, with renowned drinks consultant Ed Loveday helping to echo the kitchen through aromatic and spice-led creations. Sip on the reworked Assam Boy, a gin-based cocktail with bright notes of green apple and Vietnamese mint layered over aromatic lemongrass, kaffir lime and chilli. "We've always believed that staying consistent is what gives our diners confidence," says Isabella. "In a time when most restaurants are changing menus every season, we've stayed true to the dishes our guests return for time and again. They come in knowing they can get the meal they love, just as they remember it. This new space gives Duan and I the chance to bring a few touches of our own to the restaurant, without changing what The Malaya has always been." The Malaya is open Monday–Saturday from 12–4pm and 6–11pm at Grosvenor Place, 225 George Street, Sydney. Head to the website for more information. Images: Jason Loucas / Steven Woodburn.