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Overview
Equal parts delicious and disturbing, Dark Mofo is an immersive celebration of the winter solstice that descends upon Hobart to flaunt the gruesome and the visceral, exploring ancient ritual and ceremony from the past to the present day. Kicking off on June 8, the 14-day festival features a slew of music, food, performance art, light and sound installations alongside exhibits that are beyond the boundaries of regular categorisation.
Presented by the Museum of Old and New Art (Mona), the festival is the brainchild of the museum's founder David Walsh and creative director Leigh Carmicheal, and 2017 will be its fifth iteration. Mona was built as an extended, underground labyrinth, 11 kilometres north of Hobart — an easy 25-minute ferry ride along the Derwent River — with the private fortune of Walsh. It's explicit and unashamed, and is affectionately referred to as 'the museum of sex and death'. In short, you have to go. And Dark Mofo is the perfect excuse to head down to Tassie and make a weekend of it.
Spectacular events (like this one) are worthy of a big trip, and aside from casual laziness and a little lack of inspiration, there's really nothing stopping you from squeezing Dark Mofo into your schedule. We've teamed up with Mazda3 to help you plan your out-of-the-city trips ahead of time, so you can detour from your regular routine and inject a little adventure into your life. The festival will keep your schedule jam-packed, but you should make some time to explore Hobart too. Here are the best places to eat, drink and stay if you're visiting for Dark Mofo. Pack a coat (and gloves, and a beanie) and bring a palate laced with intrigue — hedonism is the order of the day.
Dark Mofo's Winter Feast, shot by Rémi Chauvin.
EAT
It's no coincidence that Hobart's restaurant scene is undergoing a new wave. Local chefs are giving restaurateurs on the mainland a run for their money, establishing eateries that significantly reduce the time it takes to transport produce from paddock to plate.
No visit to Hobart would be complete without a Saturday morning trip to Salamanca Market. Every weekend, the harbourside suburb becomes a bustling marketplace, showcasing a broad and delicious range of local produce, artisanal crafts and food stalls. Be sure to drop by Machine Laundry, a cafe that doubles up as a laundromat serving some of the best coffee in town. Another honourable mention for coffee and brunch is Room for a Pony — it's located up the hill in North Hobart.
While Salamanca is an iconic (and necessary) weekend tourist stop, it's worth noting that the market can get very busy, particularly over the festival period. A quieter alternative is the Farm Gate Market, which closes off Bathurst Street every Sunday from 8.30am until 1pm (late enough for you to sleep away the sins of the previous night). Brimming with local farmers, this is the place to source some of Tasmania's best game and fresh meat, as well as fresh-from-the-farm produce, such as pickles and chutneys. Bathurst Street is also a hotspot for brunch options; The Flipped Egg serves a mean breakfast burger, while Bury Me Standing is your go-to for pot-boiled bagels. Tasmania is also said to boast some of the freshest fish outside of Japan and the Farm Gate Market is lucky enough to host Masaaki Koyama's hugely popular sushi stall. And you absolutely need to get a dozen oysters (yes, even for breakfast).
If your budget extends beyond market nosh, make time to have a meal at Franklin. David Moyle's ten-tonne Scotch oven warms up the concrete space with a tight but top-notch menu of modern Australian dishes and some prized Tasmanian seafood. It's also totally fine to drop by for a drink and a snack before or after a show, so you can still visit without spending up a full storm.
In the evening, Dark Mofo offers two avenues for gluttonous excess. Set along Hobart's waterfront, the Winter Feast is a holy pilgrimage for the hungry. Local and international chefs serve hawker-style hedonism within a medieval-themed banquet hall, lined with naked flames and a diverse range of food outlets. Otherwise, head down to Dark Park at Macquarie Point — this is the free and interactive epicentre of Dark Mofo. The space is an industrial expanse littered with art installations, food trucks and the obligatory fire pit — a must for anyone still fanging for sensory stimulation.
Preachers.
DRINK
If you're looking to make a boozy discovery, Hobart is a bonafide goldmine. Cascade Brewery sits pretty at the foot of Mount Wellington and takes home the trophy for Australia's oldest operating brewery. For a small fee ($25-35), you can tour the 185-year-old building before enjoying a selection of ice-cold, just-pulled beers and ciders from the Cascade portfolio.
If whisky's more your thing, Lark has won countless awards for its single malt, a dram that holds its own on the global market. For $75, you can take a tour of the distillery — it's located 15 minutes northeast of the CBD — and discover the intricacies of the production process. Of course, whisky tastings are included in the cost of the ticket, and you'll round off the tour with a well-earned G&T made with their Forty Spotted Gin. And if you've got access to a car, it's worth making the 20-minute drive out to Sullivans Cove. In 2015 they were awarded World's Best Single Malt Whisky at the World Whisky Awards for their French oak cask — so a dram of their stuff is hard to come by. They do tastings and tours on the hour, Monday to Friday.
Back in town, Preachers is your go-to for craft beer (they have 16 on tap), cider and boutique wines. It's a laidback pub with a vibe suited to all seasons — they have open fires to warm you up on cold nights (and the nights are very cold). There's even a vintage school bus parked on the front lawn — a gimmick that doesn't seem to wear off. Keep an eye out for South Seas Cocktail Lounge too, a secretive den for rum-based cocktails and tropical vibes. It's tricky to spot and often bypassed — but be sure to look for the red abstract artwork at the front of the building, located at 13-17 Castray Esplanade. At Dark Mofo's own Dark Park, drop by the Talisker Dark Bar serving hot toddies and Irish coffees, and pairing ten-year-old single malt whisky with blue cheese jaffles — a melty fusion of Tasmanian stilton and mozzarella.
DO
Dark Mofo's creative director Leigh Carmichael has called this year's program the most ambitious to date. The lineup combines typical plumes of fire, feasting, bacchanalian imagery and challenging performance pieces that are as confronting as they are spectacular.
Austrian artist Hermann Nitsch will exhibit 150.Action, a visceral performance piece that is not for the faint-hearted. This performance will feature 500 litres of blood and an animal carcass with the backing of a full orchestra. Heavy. On the lighter end of the spectrum, Crossing invites participants on a 200-kilometre pilgrimage north of Hobart, visiting six different churches across six different nights. Each church will provide a backdrop for soundscapes and light shows. This year, Mona will also host The Museum of Everything for its first Australian showing, a world-wandering exhibition that lays focus on the untrained, the unintentional, the undiscovered and the unclassifiable artists of the last three centuries.
The musical lineup is the strongest yet. Scottish post-rock stalwarts Mogwai will perform a vast and soaring soundscape, and German experimental noise art pioneers Einstürzende Neubauten will delve into their portfolio, which spans 37 years. Dark Mofo has also secured a performance from indigenous hip-hop group A.B. Original and Norwegian black metal experimental musicians Ulver. Xiu Xiu will celebrate the music of David Lynch's Twin Peaks.
Then there are the Dark Mofo regulars. The Nude Solstice Swim is a communal dip in the ocean on the first sunrise after the winter solstice, and the Ogoh-Ogoh, the traditional Indonesian monster procession, arrives in Hobart in two parts: the purging and the burning.
STAY
If you're visiting Hobart during Dark Mofo, you'll want to be in the thick of it. Events are scattered across the city, but are centralised around the Salamanca, waterfront and CBD areas.
Filling the gap between backpackers and budget chain hotels, the Alabama Hotel offers boutique, budget-friendly accommodation at the centre of Hobart. You won't find elevators, fluffy robes or en-suite bathrooms here — rather, every room has its own decorative style, heaps of character and super-fast WiFi. The bar is well-stocked and serves a good coffee throughout the day.
If you're on a higher budget, consider renting a Mona Pavilion. You won't be staying at the museum (you're only allowed to do this if you're dead, the Pavilion website kindly reminds us) but a luxury den sitting on the bank of the River Derwent. Each pavilion is named after an influential Australian architect and is decorated with Mona artworks. It's fancy. Alternatively, The Henry Jones Art Hotel is close to the waterfront and just steps away from Macquarie Point, the site of Dark Park. Rooms are pricier than The Alabama, but tastefully decorated with works from local artists. You'll also wake up to the glorious views of the harbour.
Dark Mofo runs from June 8 to 21.
Top image: Rémi Chauvin (2014), courtesy of Mona.
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