Northcote's High Street is in no short supply of great bars and restaurants, but Ruckers Hill stands out as one of its greatest — not for being all showy and full of theatrics, but for providing a proper local neighbourhood drinking and dining experience that is both polished and casual. David Murphy (ex-Bistro Thierry, Bar Nonno, 1800 Lasagne and PM24) opened the wine bar and bistro in mid-2023 taking inspiration from the Parisian 'bistronomy' movement, which emerged in the '90s as an antidote to the posh, Michelin world of French haute cuisine. Bistronomy is more about the vibe: a combination of bistro atmosphere and fine-dining techniques, at a price to suit the average wallet. And that's exactly what you get here. Murphy plates up fairly classic French fare — with a sprinkling of local and international influences — in quite a timeless style. He makes it look easy and relaxed, but the quality of what comes over the pass can only be achieved with real skill and passion. Few can whip up a Bordelaise quite as silky and rich as the one that comes with the steak, and he somehow manages to make the Jerusalem artichoke and gruyere cheese souffle pack a proper punch without it being sickeningly cheesy and overly salted. It might sound simple, but few spots nail these kinds of things quite like Murphy. The scallops with cauliflower, pancetta and caramelised champagne vinegar, and the local snapper served with green peas and sauce Américaine are also bangers, while his signature pork belly with ginger, apple and dry sherry is a must-order. Regulars won't let Murphy take this one off the menu, so you'll likely find it year-round (even if a few elements change here and there as the seasons change). Old-world vinos are also championed here — rather than the natty wines we see at most new wine bars — and can either be sampled in the front wine bar or in the bistro out back. The wine list focuses on regionality, offering a well-curated (and easily navigated) exploration of European vintages, while its cocktails feature both classics and more innovative creations made by the bar team. Ruckers Hill is certainly built for long dinners (especially when you order the brilliant $79 five-course set menu), but its top-tier wines and an impressive selection of snacks also make it a proper sip-and-snack destination. Not only would we call this one of Melbourne's best French restaurants, but also one of the city's top wine bars. And with such reasonable prices, it's hard not to become a regular.
