When a destination is as affordable as it is beautiful, it will always make a compelling case for a relaxing holiday. For many Australians, that means heading to Thailand, specifically the Gulf of Thailand, where well-trodden islands like Koh Samui and Koh Phangan offer the ideal combination of stunning beaches, great dining and luxury stays. Yet it pays to keep your expectations in check.

In 2023, Koh Samui received 3.54 million travellers — a challenge for most destinations, let alone an island that measures just 25 kilometres from point to point. It’s a similar story on Koh Phangan, with an estimated four million annual visitors. Of course, serene pockets still exist, but finding them requires more than a little careful consideration.

An alternative is Koh Tao, the third and smallest island in this Gulf of Thailand trio. Far from unknown — sun-drenched shorelines devoid of people are rare — this speck is occasionally dismissed as a mere scuba diving destination. However, Koh Tao offers all the upsides of its more famous neighbours, while delivering incredible experiences above and below the water.

Reaching Koh Tao is relatively simple, but you won’t be flying direct. With the island only accessible by boat, landing at Samui Airport is the easiest option. Once you touch down, you can head straight to the ferry dock to complete the two-hour journey to Koh Tao. Meanwhile, ferries also depart from Surat Thani, Chumphon and Koh Phangan.

Regarding when to visit, the high season runs from December through August. Consider trading a slightly more uncertain weather forecast for smaller crowds; early September can be a great time to visit, ahead of the October wet season. The beaches are quieter, the prices are lower and there’s no shortage of hot and sunny days to relish.

Sairee is Koh Tao’s central hub. And like many island hubs, it’s where most tourists congregate. With myriad restaurants and bars to choose from, expect decent food and a stellar location. For a spot that elevates the equation, Family Kitchen has top-notch Thai food and the waterfront vista you’ve been dreaming of. Nearby, ChuChu combines Thai flavours with a quality slice. Try the massaman curry pizza for a familiar taste with a local twist.

However, don’t restrict yourself to the beachfront. The French Market is a popular choice, serving fresh bread, baguettes and croissants alongside thin-crust pizza, pasta specialities and fondue. It also has a 2000-bottle wine cellar — a surprising find outside Thailand’s big cities. Good coffee is easier to come across in Koh Tao, with Sunrise Specialty Coffee serving hot and iced brews amid its shady garden. Get a slice of banoffee pie if you can.

The southern end of the island, near Chalok Baan Kao Bay, also has excellent options. Taoni is a charming cafe-coworking spot, serving avo toast, stacked bagels and vibrant smoothies. Asia Mood Izakaya is a choice spot for Japanese and Korean cuisine, complete with kimchi gimbap, chicken katsu curry and draught beer. Across the street, Koppee Beach Club is a vibey destination with quality cocktails, poolside hangs and bayside swims.

Yet there’s one spot that stands out above the rest on Koh Tao — The Gallery, an eight-table restaurant with an uncompromising dining experience. Located up a steep hillside looming over Sairee, British-born photographer and technical diver Chris Clark founded The Gallery with his wife, Pbu — the restaurant’s esteemed chef. Moving into its current “forever home” in 2020, the restaurant strives for much more than decent.

“For us, a better venue meant everything must improve, and improve continuously,” says Clark. “So, The Gallery has evolved into a curated journey through Thailand via Thai cuisine; ten courses of fine dining only accessible by application for a reservation. And ultimately, we decide who dines in our home with us.”

The guest experience is a fully guided journey — no menus, no decisions to make. In its place, a mix of history and culture that sees Chris detail each sophisticated course during service, recounting the dish’s significance in Thai homes, the origins of its ingredients and their medicinal qualities. News to most foreigners, aka farangs, in some cases, these histories are also lost to Thais, forgotten amid the country’s rapid modernisation over the last century or so.

The experience continues downstairs in The Gold Bar, a more casual but similarly thoughtful encounter. Sipping high-end cocktails and tipples, guests soak up the million-dollar views unlike any other on Koh Tao. “The Gold Bar offers food on the days when The Gallery doesn’t,” explains Clark. “Chef Pbu has just introduced a new vegan menu for the bar; it’s an extension of the medicinal healing herbal cuisine that is the backbone of our main dining experience.”

Accommodation options are just as abundant as restaurants on Koh Tao, and there are spots to suit every budget. At the lower end, The Dearly might technically be a hostel, but it rises above your average no-frills stay, with modern dorms and private rooms far beyond a shoestring setup. Kick back on a sunny terrace for breakfast, take a dip in its shaded pool or complete a PADI-certified course at the in-house dive school.

The Sai Daeng Resort is a solid choice when you’ve got beachfront bliss on your mind. Settled on a cliffside above an out-of-the-way beach, this secluded spot offers the island scenery you’ve no doubt envisaged. Snorkel in the surrounding waters, hit the spa or sip cocktails from the swim-up bar. And for those who like to workout while they vacation, there’s a gym with views you’d never find at your usual neighbourhood pump house.

Yet if private extravagance is what your trip demands, Phandara Luxury Villas should be close to the top of your list of stays. Nestled amid a lush hilltop, these villas sleep up to four guests, complete with expansive sun decks, kitchens and your very own pool, from which you can admire the sweeping coastal landscapes. With a dedicated driver helping you get to and from town, this Koh Tao stay is all about VIP treatment.

If this is your first time heading to Koh Tao, you’ll likely spend most of it baking in the seemingly endless sun. But you can choose where and when to do that. Although it’s easy to start the days even slower than usual, make an effort to rise early and catch the sunrise at Tanote Bay on the west side of the island. A dawn call is also wise for hiking, with the Laem Thian Cape walk passing through dense rainforest before opening onto a remote beach.

If you’re keen to add more movement to an otherwise easygoing schedule, Blue Chitta is a popular spot for yoga. With sessions held in the studio, outdoors or even on a boat in the bay, you can slow down, reconnect and deepen your practice through daily yoga, meditation and breathwork. And if you’re up for freediving, the team can teach you the basics in a safe environment.

However, exploring what lies beneath the waters surrounding Koh Tao is one of the island’s main attractions, with its global reputation as a leading scuba-diving destination dating back to the 1990s. This is what first attracted The Gallery’s Chris Clark, who eventually ran his own luxury dive outfit. These days, he thinks it’s best to ignore the scuba sales pitches; instead, look for people in the know at the pub or on the beach.

“Generally, the level of diving is very high, but like most things in life, you get what you pay for. Avoid the cheaper dive schools and try to escape the crowds: small groups, smaller boats, no noisy compressors. Come to see me at The Gold Bar, and I’ll point you in the right direction, even introduce you to some top-class people who run excellent operations.”

Not drawn to the deep? There are fun activities to explore on land, too. Close to Sairee Beach, Flying Trapeze Adventures Koh Tao will help you learn the ropes as you take to the skies. Plus, The Bunker is the island’s chalk-covered bouldering gym, suitable for beginner to advanced climbers. If you’ve got a little more experience, the gym will also hook you up with local guides who know the ins and outs of Koh Tao’s outdoor crags.

Images: Toli Wanefalea / Eleanor Scott / Chris Clark.

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