Overview
We really dig Orleans, and had to pop in for a second helping when we heard that executive chef Sam Campbell launched a brand new (late) summer menu a week ago. It’s worth fixing what ain’t broke when the result is as good as this: retaining firm favourites like the Chicken Waffle ($14) and Jambalaya Balls ($10) while introducing several new treats, the summer offerings will cater to everyone and remain wonderfully affordable.
Sam, who is also the boss man at neighbouring eateries Mexico, Britomart Country Club and 1885, is endearingly proud of his new menu and passionate about the process of creating it.
“There’s a lot more of myself in here”, he says, as tipsy suits leave the restaurant’s dark wooded, jazz-filled interior and are rapidly replaced by dressed-up couples. “It’s a lot fresher and lighter, and much more seasonal.”
Sam cares deeply about the provenance of every last ingredient in his kitchen. The tomatoes are from Hawke’s Bay, the okra is grown in Kerikeri, the Andouille sausage hails from Dunedin. Everything here is house-made, including the Creole salt on the table, or finished by hand - the figs in the first ‘small bowl’ we devour (Pickled Fresh Fig on Toast, $12) are smashed against stone.
Because Orleans is an “experience place”, Sam explains, attention to detail is important. Live music features every night, and the decor is spot-on: the windows are yellowed to emulate nicotine stains in olden-day Southern bars, and add a certain cosiness by blurring the streets outside, while the staff are decked out in white t-shirts and suspenders.
“Southern American food gets a bad rap, but New Orleans cuisine is more Creole or Cajun”, says Sam. “There’s a lot of Spanish and Italian influences and heavy use of the holy trinity - celery, onion and bell pepper. I’ve never visited myself but did extensive research and have come up with what I think is a playful take on Modern Creole cuisine, adapted to local foodstuffs. I try to mix up a bit as well, without calling it ‘fusion’ - I just hired a Korean chef to learn more about fermentation.”
Working as a private chef for twelve years, Sam’s done everything from cooking for Peter Jackson during the filming of The Hobbit to serving as a residential chef for loaded Auckland families. This is his first big gig helming a commercial kitchen, and he’s quite young, but clearly very hands-on and well-liked - it shows in the rapport he has with his staff and his willingness to sit down with us for an hour on a busy Tuesday evening to patiently talk us through the meal. He even Googles the meaning of po’ boy (the official Louisiana sandwich; four varieties are available at Orleans) when I ask - turns out it’s short for ‘poor boys’, who were the original punters.
We tried the Burnt Eggplant and Sweetcorn ($8) and Smoked Fish Brandade Beignet ($10) next, which are new and apparently popular choices. The former’s flavour is both creamy and smoky, sharpened by mint, and the latter - kawahai, capsicum, fennel and chilli in choux pastry - managed to convert someone who’s far from a seafood fan (me).
We were too stuffed to try anything else, but have it on good authority that the Heritage Tomatoes ($12), Smoked Lamb Ribs ($18) and Almond Polenta Cake ($10) are also standout items from the new menu. What struck me was the lack of deep fried options - Sam’s food is undeniably authentic and hearty, but it’s not what you’d expect to find at the Louisiana State Fair.
Orleans’ new menu is available in store now.