The Grill - CLOSED

This Federal Street staple still provides one of the best meat experiences in Auckland.
Stephen Heard
February 21, 2020

Overview

Chef Sean Connolly may have left The Grill, but this Federal Street staple still provides one of the best meat experiences in Auckland. From a library of steak featuring tender grain-finished cuts only available at this location to cold cuts, smoked pork belly, wild venison and king crab, you're spoiled for choice as a carnivore. With so many options to choose from it can all be a little daunting — hence The Grill conveniently offers the 'Study of Beef', a selection of the chef's three favourite cuts from what's on offer that day.

When in meat Mecca, it'd be rude not to splash out on the first-rate Kagoshoma A5 wagyu. Served by default at 150 grams, this rich portion of beef comes with an impeccable marbling score. Hefty steak knives are provided to cut through the fat-flecked protein, but there's no need for this kind of hardware — it simply melts at the slightest touch of pressure.

They treat their meat so seriously here at The Grill that you can request to cop an eyeful of your steak before it's cooked. It's also recommended that you leave your steak cooking preference in the hands of the chef. On the stroke of medium, the Kagoshoma is juicy, tender, rich and outstanding.

By way of New South Wales, the 2GR pure wagyu was also recommended by our server. The gain-finished cut of steak was equally as mouthwatering as the Japanese import. A full lineup of sauces are provided to match — from red chimichurri to green peppercorn — but we suggest letting the meat speak for itself.

Elsewhere on the menu, the Alaskan king crab will set you up for the feast ahead. One taste of the succulent meat with lashings of warm buttery sauce will have you slurping the oversized crustacean legs in no time. For something light, there are of course oysters from the raw bar and seafood platters combining all means of kai moana.

To pair, the heirloom tomato and mashed potato sides come highly recommended. The former is a delightful palate cleanser with the fresh additions of watermelon, blood orange and buffalo curd, while the humble mash is kicked up a notch with chicken fat gravy.

And where there's meat, there's wine. Sixteen pages of the good stuff await, from a short list of Coravin pours by the glass to bold reds and sticky dessert wines. The by-the-glass section is a good bet, where you have the choice of vino from Waiheke Island to Mendoza. The staff are knowledgeable with a great focus on attention and quality, though roaming the floor in white jackets you'd be forgiven for thinking you're receiving a visit from the chef.

The setting to enjoy all of the above is intimate enough for both a romantic special occasion and client meeting, whereas The Grill's brown leather booths are perfect for sinking into your meat coma and hiding away as you lick the plate clean.

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