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Overview
Italy is teeming with tourist attractions and delicious food – so it's hard for any one Italian city to stand out from the pack. But if you ask the residents of Florence (Firenze, to the locals), they are unanimous – the jewel in the Italian crown is the city they call home. Florence is one of the most visited cities in Europe — often a stopover between visiting Rome and Venice — and there's a whole other world behind the famous galleries and churches you'll inevitably visit first.
Here's where you should spend your time in Florence to ensure an unforgettable experience. If you've been thinking about booking that European holiday, do it now. Swapping your Australian winter for a European summer is a great way to make your 2017 something to look forward to. In partnership with Topdeck, here is the first instalment of our Less Obvious city guides. Episode three: Florence.
Image: Ciao Down Bella.
VISIT THE SECRET BAKERY AT MIDNIGHT
Have you ever walked past shop after shop selling pastries and sweet delicacies and wondered where they were made? Well, here's your answer. The Secret Bakery bakes pastries through the night which are bought by cafes and sold on. The bakery isn't meant to sell direct to the public, but they do anyway. You can find it on Via delle Brache, it's about 100m up on the corner of the first street on your left. It's unmarked and unsigned but there is a big frosted glass window and a white van is usually parked out the front. Go there about 1am (when the city is really coming to life) and knock on the window (you might need to do it a few times — be brave). You can buy delicious chocolate croissants and whatever else they're making that night — just ask them what they have. Each pastry costs only one Euro.
EAT TRADITIONALLY AMONG THE TOURIST TRAPS
Florence is renowned for its cuisine, but like any other Italian city it has its fair share of overpriced and underwhelming restaurants designed to get tourists to spend their hard-earned Euros. Separating the wheat from the chaff is the hard part – luckily, we have done the leg work for you. Try Trattoria Cesarino or Trattoria Osteria Da Que' Ganzi to get a taste of authentic Florentine cuisine at extremely reasonable prices - the free limoncello and biscotti at the end of the meal make it even sweeter. For Florentine steak – a must have – Francesco Vini is one of the city's best.
PICNIC IN THE BOBOLI GARDENS
The Boboli Gardens lie behind the Pitti Palace in the Oltrano, south of the river. There is an entrance fee to the gardens (although there is an often-unguarded side entrance to the Gardens at the back of Museum of Natural History, don't tell anyone we told you) but once inside, you'll soon agree they are worth the price of admission. Think of them as a medieval botanical gardens, built on an enormous scale to satisfy the whims of a succession of Renaissance rulers. Grab some fresh bread, olive oil and meats from a market and head to the high ground – you'll find grassy lawns aplenty where you can picnic with a fantastic view back over the city.
INDULGE IN APERITIVO AT SOUL KITCHEN
Aperitivo is a Florentine staple, and a great concept for any traveller on a budget. It involves going to select bars and buying a drink, whereupon that drink then gives you access to a buffet dinner FOR FREE. This idea may or may not have directly contributed to the Italian economy's downturn but it is an absolute goldmine for everyone else. There are plenty of bars which offer aperitivo but Soul Kitchen, on Via de' Benci, is one of the city's best – the food is fresh, the drinks inexpensive and generous and the vibe trendy. Get there any time from 7pm onwards and eat (and drink) to your heart's content.
PEOPLE WATCH IN PIAZZA SANTO SPIRITO
Piazza Santo Spirito is a typical Italian square and is almost a Florence micro-city in itself – beautiful cobblestones spanning the gap between palatial Renaissance buildings, flanked by a church on one side and a row of restaurants on the other. At night the Piazza comes to life, but not with tourists – the late-night crowd is almost exclusively comprised of locals and students. Gusta Pizza sits in one corner and is the city's best pizzeria – eat it on the stone steps of the church – and Osteria Santo Spirito, a local favourite, sits in the other. There is even an antique market held there on the second Sunday of every month.
EAT (MAYBE) THE WORLD'S BEST SANDWICH
A big call, but one which in this case is possibly justified. All'Antico Vinaio on Via dei Neri is a Florentine institution and you can expect to find long queues as lunch hour approaches. That the Italians, who view lining up for food as the closest thing to madness, will happily do so just for a sandwich should tell you all you need to know about how good they are. The premise is basic – tell them what meat you would like and they will make the rest with filling and condiments to complement the meat.
WATCH THE SUNSET FROM PIAZZA MICHELANGELO
The best view of the city is from Piazza Michelangelo, a short but steep walk from the city centre. During the day you will find it teeming with tourists and street vendors but, as the sun slowly fades from the sky, the Piazza really comes to life. The Piazza looks west over the city so the view of the sunset from there is unparalleled – grab yourself a bottle of red wine, some glasses and head on up to enjoy the show. You'll often find a busker up there to serenade the people seated on the steps. Romance, beauty and wine – a quintessentially Italian combination.
EAT AN ITALIAN LUNCH AT TRATTORIA MARIO
Trattoria Mario, near Mercato Centrale on Via Rosina, is your stop for an authentic Florentine lunch without the tourist prices. It is a hive of noise, shouting waiters and laughing chefs – exactly the way the Italians like it. The food is inexpensive and deliciously simple, as if it had been plated up by your Nonna on a Sunday night. There is no set menu as it changes every day, but the beef stew or the pasta ragu are ever-present. Fridays is fish day, where the meat on the menu is replaced by an all-seafood fare. You'll be in and out so quickly you might wonder if it was all a dream. And your tastebuds would agree.
WALK THROUGH THE OLTRANO AND SAN MINIATO
The central area of Florence is the most heavily congested as it has the majority of tourist attractions. For that reason, the Oltrarno is much quieter but no less worthy of your time. Its narrow streets are filled with artisans' studios, antiques stores, bars, and small restaurants full of locals who are seemingly unaware of the tourist wave overcrowding their cousins north of the river. However, at the same time it features plenty of historic sights, not least the art-filled Palazzo Pitti and the church of San Miniato al Monte. A leisurely stroll through this area can help you uncover the 'real' Florence.
EAT YOUR WAY THROUGH VIA DEI NERI
The street that houses All'Antico Vinaio also contains the city's finest gelataria (the imaginatively-named Gelataria dei Neri) and it's most famous salumeria (the only slightly more-imaginatively named La Prosciutteria). Both are extremely delicious and no trip to Florence would be complete without a visit to them both. In particular, La Prosciutteria is not to be missed — it's not for the faint-hearted or vegetarian but, for lovers of meat, cheese and wine, it should not be missed.
DAY TRIP TO THE TUSCAN COUNTRYSIDE
Florence is the capital of the Tuscany region, which is famous for its gorgeous countryside — why not take the chance to explore it while you're there? Within easy reach of Florence are many small Tuscan towns and wineries, though most day trippers will make for the hill-town of San Gimignano or to Siena (Florence's younger sibling). Some lesser-traversed sights are no less worthy — the towns of Montalcino and Montepulciano are both beautiful and famous for their wine, whilst Fiesole (a short 20 minute bus ride from Florence) has vibrant markets and a spectacular view back over Florence. A day trip is nice way to finish off a stay in Florence, as well as something to brag about — not many people make it past the tourist traps.
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Images: Ayrton-Eldridge.