The North Fitzroy Arms Hotel Has Reopened with a Light-Handed Refurb — But a Totally Reinvented Food and Drinks Lineup

The North Fitzroy Arms Hotel has been sitting on Rae Street near Edinburgh Gardens for 150 years now, with the classic old-school boozer garnering generations of loyal fans. But when it recently changed hands and construction started inside, locals were understandably worried.

In the last few years, too many Aussie pubs have undergone extensive refurbs that totally gutted the interiors, replacing their classic pub charm and warmth with cold, contemporary finishes. It can feel like a kick to the gut when this happens to your local.

But we're glad to report that such a fate hasn't befallen the Arms. The front bar has mostly remained untouched. Carlton Draught remains on tap. You can still play pool. And the teles streaming footy have been reconnected.

The 45-person beer garden is also set to get a retractable awning and outdoor heaters, so punters can hang outside no matter the weather, and a handful of tables line the street for those wanting to do a spot of people-watching.

But it's the dining room out back that's had the biggest update. Therefore Studio (Marquis of Lorne, The Corner Hotel and Union House) was brought in to reinvigorate the space without making it too "high-brow". It did this by knocking down some walls, popping up some wooden-framed mirrors and adding a heap of vintage posters. The end result gives off classic bistro vibes.

And when the sun goes down, waiters light tall candles on the white tablecloth-covered tables and dim the lights for some romantic moodiness. All up, it's a simple but effective redesign.

The food offerings, however, have been totally overhauled. Sadly, you won't find your classic parma on the menu, but there are stacks of classic British and European plates. Head Chef Barney Cohen (ex-Bar Bellamy) is cooking up the likes of beef cheek and ale pie served with mashed potato and pea soup, whole crumbed garfish and chips with tartare sauce, house-made and woodfired pork and sage sausages with cabbage, mash and lashings of homemade gravy and more.

If you're after a cheap dirty pub meal, this is no longer the place to get it. But it's far from being so posh that locals and regulars will feel alienated.

Hayley McCarthy (ex-Ides) has also been brought in to run the bevs program, which includes plenty of by-the-glass options that won't make you wince when looking at the price. Victorian and European drops are the focus here, with plenty of new-wave skin contact and natty options also making the cut.

At the front bar, you'll find a dependable selection of tap, bottled and canned beers, as well as an impressive selection of signature cocktails — we're particularly curious about the espresso martini that can be spiked with Guinness for an extra dollar.

All in all, it looks like the North Fitzroy Arms Hotel has managed to pull off a fairly light-handed makeover. The team has focused on modernising the dining options while leaving most of the other classic pub features as they were.

You'll find the North Fitzroy Arms Hotel at 296 Rae Street, Fitzroy North, open 4pm–late, Monday–Thursday, and 12pm–late, Friday–Sunday. For more information and to book a table, visit the venue's website.

Images: Jana Longhurst