Zareh
The beloved Melbourne chef's debut venue is a 40-seat tribute to family, heritage and open-fire cooking.
Overview
Chef Tom Sarafian's debut restaurant on Smith Street is a 40-seat ode to his grandfather Zareh, whose journey from Egypt to Melbourne sparked a multigenerational love of hospitality. The venue deftly marries the generosity of Middle Eastern hosting with the sleek and moody ambience one would expect from its Collingwood postcode — it's cool, but not cold.
At Zareh, the kitchen finds the centre of the room — fully open and built around a charcoal barbecue and woodfired oven by The Brick Chef. The restaurant's menu draws on a mix of Sarafian's family heritage, his stints in renowned Melbourne and London kitchens (Cumulus Inc, Rumi, Petersham Nurseries, St John, to name just a few) and travels through North Africa, the Mediterranean and the Middle East — but is ultimately defined as Armenian-Lebanese. Expect fresh Victorian produce seasoned with 'Mouneh' (pantry goods sourced directly from organic farms in Lebanon) like high-quality za'atar, sumac and pomegranate molasses, plus pine nuts, cedar oak honey and fermented pepper pastes.

Zareh's wine list spotlights producers from Armenia and Lebanon, alongside thoughtful local and international labels. Bartender Matt Linklater leads the cocktail program, with a focus on arak (an anise-flavoured alcohol traditionally served in Middle Eastern countries) — including Arak Farid, discovered by Sarafian and partner Jinane Bou-Assi in Lebanon and now imported to Australia for the first time. Notable drinks include the Zareh Gilda Martini, an icy martini laced with arak and finished with Sarafian's take on the classic Gilda, plus a selection of world-class Armenian brandies.
The space, designed with Min Tseng and MIC Projects, channels family nostalgia and Beirut's colour palette: soft green banquettes, pink-hued limestone walls and a flowing tahini-coloured curtain, anchored by a warm timber bar wrapped around the open kitchen. There are details nodding to Sarafian's grandparents' house, too — from bar tiles to a retro glass sliding door.
Zareh also retails Sarafian signature pantry favourites alongside authentic Lebanese mouneh — distilled waters, vinegars, honey and jams, spices, za'atar and freshly ground sumac — via a partnership with Droubna, a mother-and-daughter team in South Lebanon preserving traditional farming practices and village food culture. It's an invitation to take the flavours home with you.

Images: Kristoffer Paulsen