The CBD's Acclaimed Saxe Now Has a Second, Cheaper Restaurant Underneath It
Saxe Kitchen is serving up wintry bowls of gnocchi ragu, beef noodle soup and comté crumpets.
Melbourne Chef Joe Grbac (Saint Crispin, The Press Club, Il Fornaio) has worked at Michelin-starred restaurants under the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Philip Howard. His first solo project Saxe has picked up hats and stars and become CBD favourite since opening in 2017. Now, the beloved chef has revamped his restaurant — well, half of it.
What was a casual downstairs bar has been relaunched as the two-storey venue's second dining experience, separate from the polished dining room upstairs. Dubbed Saxe Kitchen, the space now boasts dim, moody lighting, timber communal tables and a few bar stools — which together create an intimate and relaxed space for family-style meals. Here, you'll feel like you're dining at Grbac's house, rather than in his lauded restaurant.
From the open kitchen, Grbac is serving up produce-driven fare with a European sensibility. Seasonal is the name of the game here. Expect pancetta and green tomato flat bread, comté crumpets and beef tartare with jerusalem artichoke and macadamia. Plus, pork ragu gnocchi, beef cheek noodle soup and coq au vin. You can also get a chef's menu for a very reasonable $65 a head (compared to upstairs's $85 or $105 degustation).
Leading the front of house is Nathan Matthews (Pt Leo Estate, Bistro Elba, Mr Wong). Meanwhile, the drinks list has been created by Alice Williams, who was previously a manager and sommelier at Brae. Expect a focus on minimal intervention, single vineyard wines, along with aperitif cocktails — like the Franco-Américain (Lillet Blanc, bitters, anise liqueur and soda) and the Edinburgh Calling (scotch, sherry and lemon).
Fans of the refined dining room upstairs will be glad to know that it hasn't changed one bit. But, next time you go to book, if you're looking for something a little more casual (and a bit cheaper) we recommend trying Saxe Kitchen on for size instead.
Saxe Kitchen is now open at 211 Queen Street, Melbourne. Opening hours are Tuesday–Friday, noon–3pm and Tuesday–Saturday, 5pm–late.
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