Overview
There's something great about a neighbourhood bar. Generally speaking, the staff are friendly and the owner can be found behind the bar, or just chatting to their guests about the food or drinks that excite them. The vibe is relaxed (and the music at conversation levels), and when you realise you've been having a really good time, for a little too long, you're probably not very far from home.
In recent days, Thornbury locals have had a few reasons to rejoice in the idea of a local. Those reasons are a crop of new bars set to elevate the Thornbury section of High Street into a bona fide Melbourne 'destination'. Like, for people from all over town – not just the locals (although we will always know who got there first).
Here is a rundown of what's new — and great — in High Street, Thornbury.
Northern Git
Four out of the five listed here are bars, so it seemed the responsible thing to do to encourage dinner first. And, that's pretty easy to do when you have an option such as Northern Git. While the name for some might invoke thoughts of an old Geordie chav, you can rest assured the experience here is much more refined. Share plates abound (the asparagus dish, $16.50, was light, well-balanced and a fresh and tasty way to begin), there is a selection of beef cuts to be ordered by weight (the porterhouse, $13.50 per 100gm, was a melt-in-your-mouth delight, sliced and served simply with garlic sautéed spinach and red wine jus) and there's wine on tap. Literally, on tap, out of a keg — and served in various carafe sizes up to a litre. That 'responsible' beginning suddenly went downhill.
757 High Street, Thornbury, (03) 9484 6389, facebook.com/NorthernGitRestaurant
Trumpy
The newest of the bunch, Trumpy, also offers dinner, but serves just as well for a drinking spot, or date place. It's cosy, warm and intimate (hence the date suitability), despite being a warehouse conversion with lofty ceilings and exposed beams. I was, however, left wondering how they might water the plants, sitting by the dozen up in the pitch of the roof.
Trumpy is a purveyor of beer, wine, cocktails and tapas. A pretty standard affair, but that's perfectly fine with us – especially in Thornbury, where the standard has previously been cafes, takeaway joints and op shops. The food is modest in selection, but confident in execution. Fancy fish fingers ($18), Hangar Steak ($19), taro chips and pumpkin with dukkah and labne are a perfect complement to the drinks list, from which the cocktails are the hero.
646 High Street, Thornbury, (03) 9480 0012, trumpybar.com
Carwyn Cellars Back Room
For anyone feeling thirsty in Thornbury on a Monday or Tuesday night, Carwyn Cellars' new Back Room is your saviour. The only one in the area that's open every night, this small bar has the heart of a cavernous beer hall: 16 taps span the length of the bar, cocktails are absent from the menu (save for a negroni on tap — yes, on tap!), and huge outdoor tables are prime spots for a group gathering.
The enthusiasm for good booze is obvious. Some might call the 'two Bens' (owner Ben Carwyn and manager Ben Duval) fanboys. Craft beers rotate constantly on the taps, the wine list changes with the wind, and there's more than 100 whiskeys on offer. How else would those who grew up on wineries, enthuse profusely over whiskey and run a local cellar filled with craft beer want to do things? When it all starts to go to your head, you can have some cheese, or order a delicious Middle Eastern style pizza from The Moor's Head nearby, and have it delivered straight to your table.
877 High Street, Thornbury, (03) 9484 1820, carwyncellars.com
Joanie's Baretto
The longstanding success of Umberto a few doors down inspired the owners to open Joanie's in the same strip. A charming, rustic haven with the necessary modern sleekness, this bar transports you to the heart of Italy. A courtyard with flower boxes, pictures on the walls, Aperol bottles on the shelves and various pieces hanging from the ceiling set the scene, while the drinks menu and antipasti options round it out. Start with an Aperol spritz or negroni at the bar, take some olives and prosciutto to a booth with a glass of Chianti, and once you've worked out the Pinocchio taps in the bathrooms, finish with a grappe or amaretto digestivi. Joanie's is an authentic European drinking spot that will simply charm the pantaloni off you.
832a High Street, (03) 9480 5774, joaniesbaretto.com.au
Pallino
There's something really inviting about Pallino. Maybe it's the warm, modern European fit-out filled with marble, dark wood and brass features. Maybe it's the inviting courtyard (complete with astro turf and Bocce games in summer), or maybe it's the humble drinks list (five regulars on tap plus a couple of rotating specials, modest and largely local wine list, and standard cocktail offerings). Or it could be the welcoming bar staff who stand at the divine marble bar and ask you how your day's been? Whatever it is, Pallino — the longest running business in this list — attracts a friendly, yet trendy local crowd and strikes the perfect (and oft misplaced) balance between sophistication and neighbourhood warmth.
790 High Street, Thornbury, (03) 9484 7968, pallino.com.au
What's next?
Rumour is that an enormous concrete space on High Street, south of Thornbury Village is to be become a permanent home for a collection of food trucks, 'Trailer Park' style. The space has been acquired by a Melbourne hospitality giant — now all we can do is wait.
Trumpy image credit: Danielle Chau