Orlo
The historic Dyason Cordial Factory has been given a new lease of life thanks to several Melbourne hospo heavyweights.
Overview
Eastern Grace Group (St. Cloud Eating House and Young's Wine Rooms) went through some big changes in early-2024. First, owner James Klapanis brought on Matteo Tine (ex-Grossi Florentino, Bar Carolina, Tetto di Carolina and Pixie) as the restaurant group's Executive Chef and Creative Director.
Tine then assembled a new team for Young's Wine Room, seeking to reinvigorate the site. And in June 2024, the group opened a huge new venue: Orlo.
Set across three floors in Collingwood's historic Dyason Cordial Factory, Orlo is home to a ground-floor dining room, enclosed courtyard with olive trees and vines, private dining mezzanine and basement bar. Each space has its own distinct feel, but the menus are all heavily influenced by Mediterranean dining.
In the restaurant, Tine is leaning heavily into his Sicilian roots, plating up contemporary Italian eats influenced by a smattering of other European cuisines.
Tine shared: "With my Sicilian background, I primarily and instinctively lean on Italian cuisine, but I can't help but recognise and use techniques and flavours from other countries and cuisines.
"My mentor, Guy Grossi, who is basically my second father, told me that everything on the plate has to tell a story and have a reason for being on the plate. This is what creates the connection to the customer. People want a story; they want to know why the chef has put this or that on the plate. And I really want people to hear and enjoy my story."
All of this equates to dishes like the southern rock lobster served with a scotch egg and optional caviar; swordfish skewers with orange, miso and olive mollica (sautéed bread crumbs); char siu-style chicken with fermented chilli and pickled rapa; and an 800-gram Black Angus dry-aged rib eye covered in a leek and porcini rub and salmoriglio.
Tine is all over the food, but Eastern Grace Group has brought on a couple of hospo heavyweights to create the drinks menus.
When it comes to wine, Grossi Group's Carlo Grossi has curated a list of vinos to pair with Tine's Med-inspired dishes. He's been tasked with making these fun, bright and accessible, meaning you don't have to spend the big bucks when ordering a bottle for the table.
And for the cocktail menu, Klapanis has enlisted none other than Joe Jones (Purple Pit) to work his magic. We're huge fans of his Purple Pit libations, so can't wait to see what he does at Orlo.
Here, he's designed a few signature sips, including seasonal cordials that'll be served in old cordial bottles as a fun nod to the building. We're sure the best place to find these bevs will be in Orlo's underground bar Cordial Club, but the main dining room also has its own marble-topped bar where you can eat and drink.
The 1880s red brick factory has been revived by the team at McCluskey Studio, who've kept plenty of its original features — exposed brickwork and beams — while glamming it up a little. They've also worked with Klapanis to use his collection of reclaimed materials and vintage furniture throughout the site.
Images: Parker Blain.
