Twelve months after State of Grace served its last drinks on Collins Street, shutting up shop along with its secret cellar bar Fall From Grace, the city hot-spot has made a triumphant return. Resurrected in style — and this time sporting a new King Street address — the well-loved venue has made one hell of a comeback. Here, old-world decor meets contemporary flair with a touch of the experimental.

Mirrors, marble and chandeliers abound through both the European-style restaurant at street level and the hidden drinking den tucked below. Like the original, the latter is accessed through a bookshelf, though it's swapped the soaring ceilings for an intimate den, scattered with lounges and vintage knick-knacks.

From the kitchen comes a share-friendly, modern Australian offering with a European edge. It's a modern take on bistro fare, sporting dishes like Aylesbury duck breast with crispy duck leg, rhubarb and freekah ($36); gnocchi with sage and black garlic purée ($28); and scallops teamed with apple, black pudding and candied bacon ($23).

An extensive selection of grazing bites is sure to prove a hit with the after-work crowds, featuring bites like freshly shucked oysters ($5 each), prawn and prosciutto croquettes ($14), and a chicken liver pâté matched with jammy orange curd and brioche ($17).

Behind the bar, classic cocktails sit alongside clever signatures, like the Little Hell ($19) — a blend of gin, Campari, apple and blood orange with a hint of rosemary — a Charged Negroni ($24), with dark rum and coffee, and the Saving Grace ($19), a salted caramel-spiked espresso martini.