State of Grace

Twelve months after State of Grace served its last drinks on Collins Street, shutting up shop along with its secret cellar bar Fall From Grace, the city hot-spot has made a triumphant return. Resurrected in style — and this time sporting a new King Street address — the well-loved venue has made one hell of a comeback. Here, old-world decor meets contemporary flair with a touch of the experimental.

Mirrors, marble and chandeliers abound through both the European-style restaurant at street level and the hidden drinking den tucked below. Like the original, the latter is accessed through a bookshelf, though it's swapped the soaring ceilings for an intimate den, scattered with lounges and vintage knick-knacks.

From the kitchen comes a share-friendly, modern Australian offering with a European edge. It's a modern take on bistro fare, sporting dishes like Aylesbury duck breast with crispy duck leg, rhubarb and freekah ($36); gnocchi with sage and black garlic purée ($28); and scallops teamed with apple, black pudding and candied bacon ($23).

An extensive selection of grazing bites is sure to prove a hit with the after-work crowds, featuring bites like freshly shucked oysters ($5 each), prawn and prosciutto croquettes ($14), and a chicken liver pâté matched with jammy orange curd and brioche ($17).

Behind the bar, classic cocktails sit alongside clever signatures, like the Little Hell ($19) — a blend of gin, Campari, apple and blood orange with a hint of rosemary — a Charged Negroni ($24), with dark rum and coffee, and the Saving Grace ($19), a salted caramel-spiked espresso martini.

Late last year, the newly reopened (and relocated) State of Grace added to Melbourne's burgeoning rooftop bar scene, launching its own sky-high drinking hole. With impressive views across the city, the rooftop is serving up a succinct lineup of snacks — including grilled haloumi, chicken liver pâté and cured meats — and classic and untraditional pizzas (think cheeseburger and fried chicken toppings for the latter).