The Mount Erica Hotel has seen some things. Back when it was established as the area’s first licensed venue in 1853, the corner of Williams Road and High Street was considered a bush setting. After two decades of operation, it was then rebuilt after a bushfire (yes, a bushfire) tore through the building. In the 140 years that have followed, the site has been through many iterations — some more successful than others. But the old Prahran boozer has been a constant even while the suburb around it has changed.

So after the last tenants were promptly kicked out of the premises, it was a relief to hear that the team behind Fitzroy’s Marquis of Lorne had taken over the property and were planning to keep it operating as a watering hole. 

The guys behind the renaissance of this iconic southside venue have taken a nostalgic approach to the refurbishment that harks back to the pubs of the ’60s and ’70s, decked out with wood panelling, fireplaces and cosy corners to cradle a drink. Add classic, well-executed fare and a sun-soaked terrace, and, well, it might well be a strong contender for the city’s new favourite old pub.

The Mount Erica Hotel opened its doors this week, and we’ve got a first look. In partnership with Zantac we’re uncovering the best new restaurants and bars around Australia as they open. We’ve got the lowdown on the team, the design and — most importantly — the menu so that you can head in educated, excited and ready to take it all in — with a few dishes recommended by the chef, no less.

Luckily for this rough diamond, the Mount Erica vacant site recently caught the eyes of Matt Vero, Will Benjamin and Cal Hitchens, who are responsible for northside favourite The Marquis of Lorne, as well as Richmond’s Union House, which opened in August this year. 

The guys have teamed up with Sean Donovan, who will be applying his expertise from the Fitzroy Town Hall and Station Hotel to the role of head chef. Working in close proximity at their respective Fitzroy establishments — and often sharing a beer at the bar at the end of the day — Hitchens and Donovan struck up a friendship. So it seemed like a no-brainer when the opportunity came up to jump into a project together.

Since the team has taken over the space, locals have eyed recent developments and refurbishments with a high level of curiosity. As Vero sums it up: “People are just excited to see it come back.”

To make their vision for the Mount Erica a reality, the team turned to Melbourne Bergman and Co., the architects behind the vibrant atmospheres at Chin Chin, Mr Miyagi and Hawker Hall. With the combined skills of creative director Wendy Bergman, interior designer Ineke Hutter and architect Jack Monte, this old pub will look better than it ever has.

The Bergman and Co. team was conscious of having the fate of Melbourne’s oldest pub in their hands. “We enhanced the history and detail,” says Bergman. “We engaged and worked with the existing mouldings.”

While the recognisable Victorian-era facade remains intact, spruced up with a fresh lick of paint, the interior is a different story. “It was a total mish-mash — over the years there had been so many add-ons,” laughs Bergman. Floors have been levelled out, unsightly bulkheads removed and the old front bar has been restored to create a vision of the quintessential pub.

The dining space has a theatrical, lobby lounge feel, clad in warm timber panelling and tailored tartan, while the lounge plays with dark blue and teal to create a laidback gathering place, complete with quirky art and a fireplace. It’s a filmic and eccentric interpretation of the mid-century pub. The front bar brings old and new together, mixing a contemporary colour palette of reds and oranges with the traditional timber bar, brought back to its original beauty.

Custom lighting designed by Please Please Please uniquely illuminates each space, creating the atmosphere for a family meal in the dining room, a first date in the lounge or a laidback lager at the front bar. The terrace also hints at the retro, with ’70s-style Besser blocks delineating a relaxed outdoor space, a setting that will quickly become your go-to for a crisp summer cider. Naturally, you’ll be able to watch your footy team’s games on the TV — it wouldn’t be a Melbourne pub without it.

Just like the design, the menu centres on simplicity and sophistication with Mediterranean and Middle Eastern touches. Head Chef Sean Donovan describes the offering as “modern, fresh, produce-driven food”, with a major twist: a newly-installed charcoal rotisserie. Chicken, beef, lamb, seafood and vegetables will get the delectably smoky treatment, bringing out the best of the season’s produce.

But don’t panic: the classic pub crowd-pleasers aren’t going anywhere. Sausages, fish and chips and chicken parmas are core to the menu, elevated by Donovan’s kitchen crew beyond your average stodgy pub fare. The staples are joined by plenty of lighter seafood and vegetable dishes; you’ll be able to snack on salt cod fritters and fresh oysters before moving on to the smoked trout and endive salad or the retro-inspired prawn cocktail.

Expect some unexpected elements in the drinks offering too. Will Benjamin oversees the booze selection, and his beer knowledge shines through  a range of 12 beers across 30 taps means you’ll never be short of something new to try. In addition to Melbourne’s standard brews, you’ll find local pilsners, pales and golden ales from the likes of Sample, Stomping Ground, Balter and Wolf of the Willows, as well as some hop-heavy and sour varieties from Kiwi breweries Epic and Liberty. “We focus on local and independent breweries,” said Benjamin, “we’re still independent and so we like to offer that variety.”

Likewise, the wine list pairs straightforward classics with quirkier drops, all at a price point that’ll keep your bank balance happy. “We looked for wines with a sense of place, wines that are consciously made,” Will explains. Keep an eye out for the four cocktail taps with mixes rotating seasonally – sip on a dark and stormy in the autumn and a house punch in the summer.

There’s no single demographic — all are welcome here. Whether it’s a Sunday spritz on the terrace, a roast dinner with the folks or a post-work pint, the Mount Erica Hotel is back and she’s ready for another golden age.

CHEF’S PICK: FOUR DISHES TO ORDER

So what should you order? Donovan has spent months on this menu, so we thought he’d be the best person to ask. Here’s four of his favourite dishes on the menu at the Mount Erica.

Mount Erica Hotel is now open at 420 High Street Prahran. For more info, visit mtericahotel.com.au.

Keen to check out more newbies? Have a sift through the newest crop of Melbourne openings.

To find out more about Zantac, visit the website. Zantac relieves heartburn. Always read the label. Use only as directed. If symptoms persist consult your health professional. 

Words: Tula Wynyard. Images: Frances Parker.