If there’s one thing Michael Madrusan and his team have a knack for, it’s creating strong characters. The founders of hospitality group Made In The Shade nailed a distinctly elegant vibe with award-winning cocktail bar The Everleigh, and followed up with the wild child party animal that is Russell Street’s Heartbreaker. Now, Michael, alongside wife Zara and the rest of the crew, is turning his hand to yet another personality-fuelled venue, taking cues from the french brasseries of The Big Apple for the effortlessly sophisticated Bar Margaux.

It’s a long-discussed concept for which the team has finally found the perfect home in a CBD basement — complete with very handy 24-hour licence. Rocking a sprawling underground space on Lonsdale Street, Margaux is set to be Melbourne’s new go-to for wining, dining and late-night good times.

The vibe is pitched somewhere in between her two siblings. “We spend a lot of time personifying the venues, actually turning them into characters. ‘Who is she, what does she speak like?'” says Zara. “The zebra became a bit of a symbol for Margaux. She’s a wild horse, she’s got that wild late-night feel. It’s going to be fun, it’s going to be casual. A bar before a restaurant, but also a bit glamorous and sophisticated.”

Here, the fun kicks on till 3am weekdays and 5am Fridays and Saturdays (a rarity with venues of this sort in the CBD), with a substantial supper menu of classic French fare on offer right through to close. It’s also the Madrusans’ biggest dive into the culinary game yet, with longtime friend and former colleague Daniel Southern heading up the kitchen. “What we wanted to do was provide a really great place, where you’ve got great drinks, you’ve got really great food and a great atmosphere,” says Michael. “A place where you feel comfortable.”

Bar Margaux opened its doors this week, and we’ve got a look-in. In partnership with Zantac we’re uncovering the best new restaurants and bars around Australia as they open. We’ve got the lowdown on the team, the design and — most importantly — the menu so that you can head in educated, excited and ready to take it all in.

Bar Margaux marks Made In The Shade’s sixth local venture, as Michael, Zara and their team add to a string of hit projects that includes the aforementioned Everleigh and Heartbreaker, as well as Connie’s Pizza, The Everleigh Bottling Co. and Navy Strength Ice Co.

“Bar Margaux is an idea that we’ve had for a long time, going back to the time when we were opening The Everleigh,” says Michael. “Living in New York, there were a couple of really great, influential venues that were heavily geared towards that concept of a Parisian brasserie — like Keith McNally’s Balthazar, Pastis, Schiller’s.”

“We’ve always loved those because of the way that they’re cake-and-eat-it-too kind of venues. You can go for a drink at any time, or you can go for a snack, or go there for dinner. It’s a very unstructured style.”

To finally bring his concept to fruition, Michael has teamed up with Southern, who he’s known since they worked together at Melbourne’s Comme. The British-born chef’s decades of experience with French and European fare is put to excellent use throughout the menu, while bar expertise from both Michael and group Operations Manager Marty McCaig shines through the drinks offering.

“It’s kind of about trusting that everyone working on this is the best at their game,” explains Zara. “We’ve all known each other for quite a long time, so you can just let people go off and do their own thing and then bring it back together.”

Bar Margaux’s gem of a space was most recently home to an underused function room, servicing Italian restaurant Pomodoro Sardo above. It’s a sprawling den that’s been completely overhauled at the hands of the Madrusens, reimagined under the guidance of Michael’s interior designer sister, interior designer Deanie Madrusan of Bar Studio.

“We’re pretty lucky to have her,” says Michael. “She designed The Everleigh and had a pretty big hand in Heartbreaker, too.” The pair had been toying with the idea of a New York-style brasserie – or ‘white tile joint’ – for a few years now, so the concept for Margaux came together pretty smoothly. “The process with Michael and Deanie is really interesting, actually,” explains Zara. “He has a fully fleshed-out vision in his head and she has the skills to bring it to life. They’re sort of like a double-act in that regard.”

That signature strong vision proved key. “When it came to doing this style, it was actually really simple,” muses Michael. “We knew that if you just concentrate on a few of those classic details, it’s not going to be too hard.” To that end, expect all the traditional elements: red leather banquettes, white subway tiles across the walls, black and white chequered floors and a striking zinc bar-top.

Whatever your agenda, there’s a space here to suit, whether bunking down in one of the booths of the 85-seat dining area, or perching for a feed at the bar — a concept that’s very much encouraged at Margaux. Either way, under the warm orange glow of the lights, you’ll find yourself far removed from whatever’s going on upstairs in the real world. “That’s the same with all of our venues, they’re all very escapist,” explains Zara. “You feel like it could be any hour of the morning or you could be anywhere. It’s all part of that experience.”

Here, sophisticated, yet comforting French fare is the schtick — the lineup of escargot, Parisian-style gnocchi, duck frites and bavette steak are very similar to what you’d find in one of New York’s well-loved brasseries.

Daniel worked closely with Michael to develop the menu, translating ideas and experience onto plates in a similar fashion to how the space’s design was conceived. “It’s just good, honest French cooking,” says the chef. “It’s the kind of thing where you know it tastes good, but you don’t know how it tastes good. It’s stripped-back French bistro food.” He’s especially excited about the duck, which has been sourced from the Great Ocean Road.

But, while Bar Margaux’s key culinary focus might be on those classic French flavours, it’s also out to deliver Melburnians a top-notch late-night offering. Shift workers and hospitality night-walkers can now tuck into the likes of steak frites, creamy bowls of mussels, or a decadent rotisserie lobster croque monsieur, right through until 5am on Fridays and Saturdays. The rest of the week is also a win for late-night appetites, with the kitchen plating up until 3am.

Then, there’s the specials. Bar Margaux’s ‘Golden Hour’, which runs daily from 4–6pm and again from midnight until close, promising eats and drinks at wallet-friendly prices. You might pop in for a burger matched with a glass of Burgundy, or perhaps a serve of oysters and Champagne, each for a neat $29.

Meanwhile, the daily-changing, classic French ‘plat du jour’ offering is sure to get a workout. Specials like Monday’s beef bourguignon ($25), Tuesday’s two-person fondue ($45) and the $26 coq au vin each Friday, make this the kind of place you’ll want to put on high rotation.

Of course, with this team at the helm, the drinks list was always going to be gold as well. Madrusan’s biggest cocktail list yet features a choose-your-own-adventure ‘This & That’ section, a solid spread of lower ABV creations and some longtime owner favourites, like the Guinness- and Champagne-infused Black Velvet, and a classic Irish coffee. Throw in a strong list of European beers, French wines and an impressive selection of Champagne and you’ll be very glad this place kicks on late.

CHEF’S PICK: FIVE THINGS TO ORDER

So what should you order? Southern has spent a lot of time on this menu, and it’s both refined and casual — and very indulgent. Here are five picks from Bar Margaux’s menu.

Bar Margaux is now open from 4pm–3am seven days a week — and until 5am on Friday and Saturdays — at 111 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne

Keen to check out more newbies? Have a sift through the newest crop of Melbourne openings.

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Words: Libby Curran. Images: Parker Blain. Bottom carousel food images: Gareth Sobey.