Last year, Sydney’s dining scene scored itself a very unique addition in Mjølner, which sees The Speakeasy Group (TSG) dishing up a new-school take on the Viking feasts of old. According to co-owner and TSG founder Sven Almenning, it’s what you might expect should the Norse God of Thunder, Thor, recreate the festivities of Valhalla, right here on earth.

He’s a little hazy on the specifics of how such a strong concept first came about, though says we can chalk it up to the TSG team finding a cool space in Redfern, having a desire to create a destination venue and consuming a fair amount of whisky along the way.

Now, in the two-storey laneway space once home to Nieuw Amsterdam, the group’s carving out a second chapter of the Mjølner story — carefully treading that fine line between paying homage to the original and catering to an entirely new audience.

“I think the idea behind any brand extension is to remain true to the original concept,” Almenning explains. “Mjølner Sydney has been such a big hit and proved so popular with our guests that we want to build on the original idea, not detract from it.

“Our goal is to learn from our experiences in Sydney and to do our best to create a unique and fun restaurant and bar in Melbourne that will hopefully stand the test of time.”

Mjølner’s Melbourne outpost opened its doors this week and we’ve got an inside look. In partnership with Zantac we’re uncovering the best new restaurants and bars around Australia as they open. We’ve got the lowdown on the team, the design and — most importantly — the menu so that you can head in educated, excited and ready to take it all in — with a few dishes recommended by the chef, no less.

With a stable of well-loved venues that includes both Eau de Vie cocktail bars, Sydney’s The Roosevelt and Boilermaker House in Melbourne, Almenning had a crack team of hospitality maestros to draw on for this latest Mjølner iteration.

TSG partner Greg Sanderson has taken the reins, along with venue manager Max Hart — former assistant manager of Boilermaker House. The group’s bar manager Andy Griffiths and head of whisky Geoff Fewell also played key roles in bringing the new bar and restaurant to life.

To the kitchen, head chef Andy Wright brings a wealth of experience from some of the UK’s top restaurants and an affinity for techniques both traditional and contemporary. Having launched his career at Paul Heathcote’s Michelin-starred Longridge restaurant and ticked off stints at Manchester’s Lowry Hotel and our own Vue De Monde along the way, Wright now returns to Melbourne to help steer Mjølner into its next phase of existence.

Bar manager Michael Braun comes fresh from a couple of years on the shakers at Fitzroy’s world-renowned Black Pearl — a cocktail pedigree that also fits well with this new project’s ambitions. “At The Speakeasy Group, we like to create drinks that exceed people’s expectations,” he says. “It’s about showcasing unique ingredients and wowing guests with presentation.”

Of course, that focus on aesthetics played just as big a role when it came to the fit-out of Mjølner’s newest home, with such a strong venue concept requiring plenty of attention to detail. Bringing the space to life while also giving it a local edge was Melbourne-based design studio StudioY, which previously worked with TSG on Boilermaker House.

For Yaron Kanor, founder and lead designer at StudioY, the Mjølner Melbourne space is bold and warm, with a feel that speaks to a modern interpretation of Viking-style drinking and dining. To step through the huge, hand-carved timber door and past the Viking ship bow hanging above, is to find yourself transported straight to someplace else.

While the venue makes plenty of reference to its sister, the new design team effectively started from scratch to give that all-important local flavour. A purposefully unassuming exterior plays to Melbourne’s love of the hidden laneway bar, with minimal signage to guide you in. “The result is a façade that may not be seen at first glance, but once noticed, suggests something more hides behind,” says Kanor.

Upstairs, expect a Nordic-style experience, with natural leathers, bleached timber and exposed brick defining a dining hall for all the senses. A dedicated cutting zone for cured meats battles with a floor-to-ceiling chain curtain for your attention.

A moodier space downstairs beckons to a later crowd, designed for the festivities that happen after the feasting. Pressed metal panels line the walls, with the various spaces separated by bespoke raw steel bi-fold doors. Original elements are played against new ones to create focal points, while hand-carved details by M20’s Ross Grant round out that nod to eras past.

“Visiting Mjølner is intended to be more akin to an experience rather than simply a bar or dining offering,” says Kanor. “It’s a place that has a heartbeat. There are so many different materials, areas, zones, motifs and subtleties that will take multiple visits to discover”.

In the kitchen, Wright’s aim was also to honour the original Sydney venue, while playing to this new Melbourne audience and injecting his own flair along the way. The result is a menu designed for feasting that Wright hopes will “encourage and allow guests to really indulge during their visit”. As with its interstate counterpart, the lineup here is headlined by a simple quartet of mains — a bird, a beast, a fish and a vegetable — each of which punches well above its weight.

“The philosophy is to showcase exceptional local ingredients in a simple, uncomplicated way but packed with flavour and elements of surprise,” says Wright.

Of course, as anyone familiar with TSG’s DNA would have guessed, an immaculate drinks offering was every bit as crucial here, as the food, and harmony between the two, is key. Especially since this new, larger venue has paved the way for a more extensive bar situation.

“It was important for the menus to resonate with one another and not feel jarring,” explains Wright, whose kitchen team worked closely with the bar while both offerings were in development. To that end, expect to see plenty of elements from the drinks list mirrored on your plate. The Scandinavian spirit Acquavit is used to cure fish, rye elements crop up throughout the dessert menu and those flavour-packed meat roasting juices are all the better for Mjølner’s extensive whisky selection.

Bar manager Braun worked closely with the group’s other bar experts to create a drinks offering that works with the food, to sum up this next Mjølner phase. For now, the cocktail list is just a few tweaks off the original, set to quickly evolve as it works to adapt to a new crowd of drinkers. Braun’s favourite, though, has the makings of an instant Melbourne hit — dubbed The Raider, it’s a heady blend of roasted pineapple, Jameson, Diplomatico and Plantation Overproof, finished with a pineapple leather garnish.

The beer list’s been completely rewritten in a nod to the local craft beer scene, though just like the Sydney venue, a ‘skal’ is first up on the drinks agenda. Settle in, and staff will bring you one of the Viking-style horns filled with liqueur to help you kick-start your meal and signal your warm welcome into the Mjølner feasting hall.

CHEF’S PICK: THREE THINGS TO ORDER

So what should you order? Wright has spent months on this menu, so we thought he’d be the best person to ask. Here are three hearty picks from the Mjølner menu.

Mjølner is now open at Hardware Lane, Melbourne. For more info, visit mjolner.com.au/melbourne.

Keen to check out more newbies? Have a sift through the newest crop of Melbourne openings.

To find out more about Zantac, visit the website. Zantac relieves heartburn. Always read the label. Use only as directed. If symptoms persist consult your health professional. 

Words: Libby Curran. Images: Kate Shanasy.