Memphis, Tennessee
Memphis is a veritable playground for music fans. It's not only the home of blues and soul music but also the birthplace of rock 'n' roll.
Of course, one of the city’s most famous exports was the rock ‘n’ roll legend himself: Elvis Presley. The city of Memphis played a huge role in shaping this cultural icon, his music and his legacy — and vice versa. Presley’s rise to stardom is chronicled in Baz Luhrmann’s upcoming blockbuster ELVIS, released in cinemas nationwide on June 23.
Fun fact: the film was shot entirely here in Australia — specifically, on the Gold Coast — with over 95 Aussie actors included in the cast. Some of Memphis’ most important historical landmarks, including Graceland and Beale Street, were recreated for the film.
Since you’ll no doubt be itching to see and experience these iconic spots IRL after watching the film, we’ve teamed up with Memphis Tourism to bring you an extensive guide to this unique US city.
Visiting in spring or autumn when the days are pleasant and humidity is low is advised. Want to plan your trip around the big events? Check out Memphis in May, a month-long festival that includes Beale Street Musical Festival, the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest and an International Festival that celebrates a different country each year. Meanwhile, each August, the city hosts Elvis Week, a tribute to the man himself, featuring panel discussions, live concerts, tributes and more.
Delta Air Lines flies from Sydney to Memphis via Los Angeles every day. With a buzzing atmosphere and must-see landmarks at every turn, the city is best explored on foot (and not just so you can play ‘Walking in Memphis’ while doing so). You can download a free city map here. The city is also well-equipped for cyclists, so take advantage of the bike share program — a single ride is just 5 USD. And, of course, the green MATA buses pass by many of the city’s main attractions. It costs just 3.50 USD for an all-day pass.
Music is Memphis’ lifeblood. Though much airtime is given to its rich history, particularly as the birthplace of rock ‘n’ roll, we can’t give all the credit to decades past — the city has a thriving live music scene today, too. Stumbling across a live gig at any time of day should be expected here — from the legendary venues like BB King’s Blues Club and Lafayette’s Music Room to outdoor spots like Radians Amphitheater and The Overton Park Shell (where Elvis had his first public show in 1954).
If the rich musical history is Memphis’ main appeal, then the food runs a close second — specifically barbecue. There are more than 100 barbecue joints to choose from and every local you speak to will emphatically share their personal favourite. Since every pitmaster does things slightly differently, you’re just going to have to try a few to determine your own — all in the name of research, of course. You’ll find a few of our top recommendations below.
Graceland Mansion, Andrea Zucker, Memphis Tourism
SEE AND DO: LEARN ABOUT ELVIS PRESLEY’S LEGACY
The obvious place to start when mapping out your Memphis itinerary? All things Elvis. Graceland should, of course, be at the top of your list. Start by wandering around Presley’s mansion — you’ll get to take a peek inside the famous Jungle Room (his tropically styled ‘man cave’) and at the meditation garden. Be sure to catch a glimpse of the 1958 Convair 880 airplane he purchased from Delta Air Lines in 1975 (and spent almost $1 million remodelling).
Then, head to the huge Elvis Presley’s Memphis complex. It’s home to the Elvis The Entertainer Museum — filled with movie memorabilia, records, jumpsuits and more — plus the Presley Motors Automobile Museum and a bunch of interactive exhibits and games. There’s a lot of ground to cover at Graceland (120 acres to be precise), so consider staying overnight at The Guest House at Graceland.
Sun Studio, Alex Shansky, Memphis Tourism
SEE AND DO: FOLLOW HIS FOOTSTEPS
Venture beyond Graceland to understand Presley’s impact on the city at large. Start at Sun Studio, where Presley first recorded as did other musical legends including BB King, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis and Roy Orbison.
Then, onto Beale Street in downtown Memphis, one of the most important streets in musical history. If you want to hear live music during your visit (and why wouldn’t you?), this is where to go. The three-block-strip houses legendary venues like BB King’s Blues Club, Rum Boogie Cafe and Orpheum Theatre.
Beale Street was also the original home of Lansky Bros Clothier, a store famous for having dressed Presley. It has since relocated to The Peabody Hotel, though a smaller outlet still exists on Beale Street within the Hard Rock Cafe.
Logan Young, Memphis Tourism
SEE AND DO: SEE MORE OF MEMPHIS
Continue on your musical history journey by visiting the Smithsonian Institute’s Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum on Beale Street. The museum charts Memphis’ musical revolution from the rural communities of the Mississippi Delta to the civil rights movement in the 50s and 60s and beyond. Next, check out Stax Museum, which takes a deeper look at the rise and impact of soul music.
Don’t fret: there’s more to Memphis than music. You can take a look at the historic trading floor of the Memphis Cotton Exchange, paddle down the Mississippi River along the Memphis riverfront on a kayak tour or check out some of the city’s amazing street art on a self-guided tour using this mural guide.
Arcade Restaurant, Phillip Parker, Memphis Tourism
EAT: BREAKFAST AND SWEET SPOTS
Arcade Restaurant may look like any ordinary retro American diner, but it isn’t. Not only is it the oldest restaurant in Memphis, established in 1919 by Greek immigrant Speros Zepatos, but it was also where a pre-fame Presley use to dine on the reg. Brekkie is served all day here — think sweet potato pancakes topped with eggs, bacon and grits, chocolate chip pancakes, Eggs Redneck (sausages, gravy-soaked biscuits, eggs and hash browns) and boozy milkshakes.
Have a sweet tooth to satisfy? Swing by Gibson’s Donuts, which serves all manner of hole-y treats 24 hours a day, and Muddy’s Bakeshop for pies, cookies, cupcakes and more. The latter hosts baking workshops most weeks, too.
Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken, Memphis Tourism
EAT: LUNCH AND DINNER SPOTS
Memphis’ reputation for smoked meat is well known, and it has more than 100 barbecue restaurants claiming to do it best. Though we can’t possibly do them all justice here, there are a few that consistently get a good rap. The first is the award-winning Central BBQ, which has four locations around the city and credits its deep complex flavours to a secret dry-rub, 24-hour marinade and slow smoking.
Another advocate of the dry rub is Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous, a basement joint that has been serving locals since 1948. One and Only BBQ is also worth checking out, as much for its twice-baked potato salad and decadent banana pudding as its hickory-smoked pork, turkey and chicken.
Finally, not a barbecue joint but another a casual eatery that put Memphis on the culinary map is Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken. Now with 35 locations across the States to its name, this humble spot claims to be home to some of the best fried chicken you’ll ever eat (big call).
When your tastebuds are ready for a more up-market meal, make a reservation at one of the city’s fine diners. Our picks are Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen and Flight.
High Cotton Brewing Co, Craig Thompson, Memphis Tourism
DRINK: WATERING HOLES
As seems to be the case with many US cities, Memphis has seen the emergence of quite the thriving craft brewery and distillery scene in recent years. Carve out time to visit some of the small-batch producers, including Wiseacre Brewery, High Cotton Brewing Co and Old Dominick Distillery.
There are a bunch of bars across the city you should stop by for a tipple, too. The self-proclaimed ‘best dive bar in the world’ Earnestine and Hazel’s has a colourful history that includes patronage by the likes of Aretha Franklin, Ray Charles, Chuck Berry and BB King — and a mighty tasty burger, too, apparently.
Recently opened Beck & Call, Hyatt Centric Beale Street’s rooftop whiskey bar, is the place to be for sundowners overlooking the river, while East Memphis wine bar Hen House is worth visiting as much for its chic decor as for its punchy cocktails and bar snacks.
