Coming Soon: Yiaga Is Chef Prodigy Hugh Allen's New 40-Seat Fine-Diner That's Nestled Within Fitzroy Gardens
After mastering his trade at Noma and Vue Du Monde, one of Australia's brightest young culinary talents is stepping out on his own with a fascinating concept.
Despite his youth, prodigious culinary talent Hugh Allen is an established name in Melbourne's culinary scene. In 2021, he became the youngest chef ever to be awarded three hats in the Good Food Guide while heading up the kitchen at Vue de Monde when he was just 26 years old. Following formative stints at Copenhagen's Noma and that landmark role at one of Australia's most awarded restaurants, where he has been executive chef since 2019, the time has come for Allen to forge his own path with the launch of his debut restaurant, Yiaga.
Six years in the making and set to launch in spring 2025, the story this restaurant will weave begins with its deeply historic location, tucked within the leafy Fitzroy Gardens. With a hospitality legacy stretching over a hundred years, the space Yiaga will occupy was initially known as the Kiosk Refreshment Rooms, a half-timbered tea room that opened in 1908. The space was ravaged by fire in 1960 and replaced with a solid brick structure that was home to various hospitality business, most recently The Pavilion Cafe, before being left vacant for nearly a decade. During his hunt for a restaurant location, Allen just happened to wander past its disused remains and knew it was exactly what he'd been looking for.
View this post on Instagram
Working closely with renowned architect John Wardle, Allen originally intended to reimagine what remained of the existing building. Yet it was soon discovered that much of the structure was too derelict to keep. Fortunately, The Pavilion Cafe's familiar black slate pyramid-shaped roof will continue the location's enduring story, while distinctive design additions like a figure-of-eight-shaped entrance will welcome guests into this retreat hidden amid expansive greenery.
In bringing Yiaga to life, Allen and Wardle have committed to creating a dynamic space that harmonises with Fitzroy Gardens' natural surroundings. For instance, the restaurant will be built almost entirely from materials gathered from across Victoria, from the burnt earth clay tiles that line the dining room wall, to exterior bricks inspired by bark from the surrounding trees. There's even ceramics made using the same clay as the cricket pitch at the MCG, which lies just a short walk away.
View this post on Instagram
A similar level of care and sophistication will resonate through Yiaga's cuisine. Across a multi-course tasting menu spotlighting Australia's abundant culinary landscape, you can expect dishes that feature the likes of top-tier local seafood, wild game and rare native berries. The 40-seat venue aims to be more than just a restaurant, with its longer-term vision including hosting talks, workshops and more — Allen envisions the venue to evolve into a "vibrant campus of gastronomy".
"Being born and raised in Melbourne, I've always known that one day I wanted to open a restaurant here. Working and traveling around the world has only deepened my connection to this city," says Allen. "This project has already been an incredible journey, and I'm deeply grateful for the support of so many talented individuals. I can't wait to share more as the build progresses."
View this post on Instagram
Yiaga is planned for a spring 2025 opening in the Fitzroy Gardens, East Melbourne. Head to the venue's website for more information.
Top image: Jason Loucas.
