Overview
Collingwood's Smith Street has seen plenty of changes and welcomed scores of new additions since Attica alum Peter Gunn opened his sleek restaurant IDES on the strip in 2016. But for the chef, none have been quite so exciting as the arrival of March — Gunn's intimate new wining and dining venture, which opened in the neighbouring space last week.
Embracing various elements of a wine bar, a pub and an izakaya, March isn't about to be locked into just one box — just know that it's treading a whole new direction to its next-door sibling. It's your go-to for clever small bites with contemporary flair, matched to a broad-ranging curation of sake, wine and cocktails.
The 26-seat space is a moody one, created by IDES' architect Grant Cheyne Design and rocking deep charcoal tones throughout. A low, marble-topped statement counter runs down its length, allowing plenty of interaction between those with front-row seats and staff behind the bar.
As you'd expect given Gunn's culinary street cred, the drinking snack game here is strong. While the two venues share a kitchen and a flair for creativity, March's menu walks its own path with a concise, oft-changing lineup rooted in Japanese flavours and technique.
Venture in now and you can dip into plates like edamame coated in some kind of umami magic, green chilli pickled mussels with crispy garlic, sake-steamed pippies finished in a yuzu parsley butter and braised pork belly with a spicy nori glaze. Plus, a crispy sweet and sour quail that'll have you making fast use of the supplied hot towel.
The drinks offering comes courtesy of IDES sommelier Hayley McCarthy, with Victorian and South Australian drops ruling the by-the-glass lineup, and next door's cellar offering and wine list offering a huge range of gems. Expect interesting pours that'll shake a few preconceptions, alongside signature cocktails and a solid crop of sake.
Find March at 90 Smith Street, Collingwood. It's open 6pm–late Wednesday to Saturday, and 2pm–late Sunday.