An Ex-1800 Lasagne Chef Has Just Opened a New French Bistro In Northcote
RIP Bar Nonno. Welcome to the neighbourhood, Ruckers Hill.
Bar Nonno on High St in Northcote might have closed, but its spirit lives on. The venue's old head chef, David Murphy, has taken over the space, turning it into a French bistro called Ruckers Hill.
If the name Murphy sounds familiar, it's because this guy has been around the traps for a while. After starting his kitchen career at 15, Murphy went on to work as a sous chef at Bistro Thierry, PM24, Bar Nonno and 1800 Lasagne.
Ruckers Hill is Murphy's first solo project, and so far it looks like a winner. With its exposed brick and bottle-lined walls, this place is a love letter to the Parisian 'bistronomy' movement, which emerged in the '90s as an antidote to the stuffy, Michelin-world of French haute cuisine. Bistronomy is more about the vibe: a combination of bistro atmosphere and fine dining techniques, at a price to suit the average wallet.
At Ruckers Hill, this takes the form of a $79 set menu. The dishes change with the seasons, but depending on the night, you might be wolfing down king prawns and wasabi in crispy brick pastry, pork belly with ginger and dry sherry, or marbled entrecôte with a silky bordelaise sauce. Pomme frites are never far away, either.
"I wanted to create a place where the local community can eat well at a reasonable price, and cook food using the best ingredients we can get our hands on," Murphy says. "I think our tasting menu hits that sweet spot. And after a career in restaurant kitchens, it's important to me that our staff are paid fairly, and are working in a positive environment, so that's a big focus for us."
You can order a la carte, too, if that's more your speed, and Ruckers Hill also boasts an extensive (and self-described) "uncool" wine list. A lot of old-world drops, curated by sommelier Angelo Stella.
Situated just a few doors down from Westgarth Cinema, this place makes the perfect one-two first date combination. Start the night with Murphy's scallops and pancetta, finish with popcorn and a choc top. Northcote, you've got a keeper here.
Ruckers Hill is open at 83 High Street, Northcote from Tuesday through to Saturday, 5pm till late. You can make a booking via the Ruckers Hill website.
Images: The Edible Image
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