Overview
When Shannon Bennett, the internationally celebrated Melbourne-born chef, returned to the kitchen, it was intended to be a temporary stint. However, it seems that old habits die hard, with news just in that Bennett's residency at Fitzroy's design-forward hotel, the StandardX, has been extended indefinitely. Even after eight years away from the kitchen, Bennett's signature technical nous and creativity, paired with his distinctly laidback bistro style, proved to be as successful as ever.
BistroX was intended to be a three-month pop-up, with Bennett reunited with an all-star team of hospo talent, many of whom worked with him at Vue de Monde. Among them were Cory Campbell, Cuisine magazine's Chef of the Year for 2024; Ryan Henley, who steered Christchurch dining room Pescatore to two chef's hats; and Carlos Simeos Santos, one of only 260 Master Sommeliers in the world. They were joined by front-of-house veteran Steven Kirkpatrick, who worked with the StandardX crew to deliver relaxed yet intuitive service.
However, it appears that three months was not long enough for Bennett fans. Alongside his superstar team, Bennett is set to maintain his residency in the StandardX for the foreseeable future. BistroX will continue with dinner service, seven days a week, and lunch service from Friday to Sunday.
BistroX is a far more casual affair than the team's credentials suggest. The approachable menu puts a modern, hyper-seasonal spin on classic bistro dishes, and will evolve regularly, shaped by both what's in season and guest feedback. "We're here to create something that feels part of the neighbourhood — a place people want to return to," says Bennett.
Comfort and simplicity are the through-line of the menu, with all elements, including hand-cut pasta and house-baked breads, made from scratch. Dishes like herb-crusted tuna loin with celeriac remoulade; crayfish and black pudding flatbread; Gundagai lamb hot pot with braised shank and salted tongue baked in puff pastry; and a weekly rotating steak sourced from Victorian producers exhibit pared-back sophistication without ever straying too far from the comforts of a great local. Drinks are also in more than capable hands. Simeos Santos oversees a rotating by-the-glass wine list that's just as accessible — and thoughtfully curated — as the food it's designed to pair with.
The extension of its residency proves that BistroX has been a welcome new addition to Fitzroy — and certainly a welcome return to the kitchen for one of Melbourne's most celebrated culinary figures.
Images: Supplied.
BistroX is now open at The StandardX Melbourne, 62 Rose Street, Fitzroy. For more information and reservations, head to the hotel's website.