Yugen Is the Sumptuous New Japanese Diner and Omakase Bar Making Waves Beneath Chapel Street

There's almost absolutely nothing linking iconic former nightclub Q Bar and sumptuous new Japanese restaurant Yugen, but for the fact they share an address. Oh, and a particular DJ who's making an unlikely cameo at the South Yarra site all these years later, albeit with a very different style of playlist in tow.

The pulsing dance floors and free-entry 'medallions' of the early 00s have made way for a whole new world — namely, a multi-faceted drinking and dining destination with a dramatic aesthetic and an impressive commitment to detail.

Marcel Aucar

Set beneath sibling Yugen Tea Bar, the two-level subterranean space boasts soaring ceilings with a majestic chandelier by artist Jennifer Conroy Smith cascading from one corner. Downstairs is home to a lofty, open restaurant space and adjacent bar area, while the mezzanine above plays host to Yugen's six-seat omakase bar and a series of private dining rooms — including the eight-person Golden Orb that's suspended in mid-air.

The striking fitout comes courtesy of the renowned Architects EAT, drawing inspiration from the five elements according to Japanese culture: earth (chi), water (sui), fire (ka), wind (fu) and void (ku).

Culinary Director Stephen Nairn heads the stellar a la carte food offering, paying equal respect to the traditional and the creatively contemporary. Highlights include plates like the shio-koji-marinated wagyu starring tarragon, lime and ponzu; a silky smoked eel chawanmushi glistening with brown butter and spiked with crispy chicken skin; and a memorable take on the humble prawn toast featuring Chinese doughnut and a sweet-meets-sour chilli amazu. And the sushi and sashimi situation needs to be seen to be believed.

Gareth Sobey

Meanwhile, the omakase bar will showcase the masterful talents of Head Chef Alex Yu and Head Sushi Chef Samuel Chee, across an experiential dining adventure that clocks in at between $255 and $385. It's an exploration of sharp technique and top-notch produce that promises plenty of 'wow' moments once it kicks off on Friday, November 18.

A vast, yet considered array of quality sips beckons from the drinks list, with tipples to suit after-work bar visits and dinner feasts alike. A technique-driven cocktail lineup might feature the likes of the negroni-inspired Ume built on dry vermouth and plum liqueur; and the Sudachi — an inventive blend of squid ink, rice vinegar and tequila — with a strong spread of sake and wines to round out the fun.

Sam Davis

Gareth Sobey

Gareth Sobey

Gareth Sobey

Find Yugen Dining at 605 Chapel Street, South Yarra. It's open from 6pm–late Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, with the final seating at 9.30pm. On Friday and Saturday, it's also open from 6pm–late, but with a dedicated late-night menu on offer after 10pm. The omakase bar will open on November 18.

Images: Gareth Sobey, Marcel Aucar and Sam Davis.