For decades, the corner of Liverpool and Yurong streets in Darlinghurst has been home to some of Sydney's most beloved Italian restaurants. In the 1980s, eastern suburbs glitterati rubbed elbows at Tre Scalini, which spearheaded the recession-era move to pared-back trattoria-style dining. In 2019, the space became Bar Vincent, a cosy but polished neighbourhood Italian that shuttered in June 2025. And for its third act, 174 Liverpool Street was reborn as Vin-Cenzo's, from the trusted hands of The Goodies Hospitality group (Bar Copains, Bessie's, Alma's). This next chapter keeps the Italian spirit alive while adding a late-night twist: the restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday, then transforms into a weekend supper club that runs until late. In the kitchen, Nathan Sasi (ex-Nomad, Mercado, Adelaide's Leigh Street Wine Room) takes a produce-driven approach that adds clever Euro spins to Italian classics. Start with scallops with garlic butter and speck; a selection of salumi served alongside pickles and grissini; or an umami-laden bite of zucchini flower with five cheeses, topped with an anchovy. Mains include handmade pastas like roast chicken- and mortadella-packed agnolotti in an aromatic brodo, and hearty, homely dishes such as a parmesan-crusted veal cutlet with tomato, mozzarella, and basil. Desserts lean nostalgic but bold, with pig fat cannolo packed with ricotta and Sicilian almonds, coffee granita with whipped mascarpone and fig and olive oil cake with butterscotch. [caption id="attachment_1018054" align="alignnone" width="1920"] Jason Loucas[/caption] On the drinks side, group sommelier Ishan Kaplish (ex-Mimi's, Tetsuya's) has assembled a list rich in Italian, French and Australian drops, interspersed with rare vintages from Co-Owner Morgan McGlone's personal cellar. Cocktails are classic and Italian-leaning, with bottled negronis and sgroppinos with house-made sorbet among the signatures. Fans of Bar Vincent's pared-back neighbourhood vibe should like what Studio Gram has done with the place, reimagining the interiors to suit the late-night vibe but keeping the same feeling of low-lit intimacy. There's a nod to New York's red-sauce dining rooms, with tiled floors, warm wall sconces and hand-painted wall art paired against burgundy leather banquettes and walnut timber finishes. Perhaps the most dramatic change is the increase in seating capacity, which has jumped from 36 to 68 pax, thanks to a new leafy al fresco area on Liverpool Street set aside for walk-ins. Top images: Jason Loucas.