Donovans
Donovans is a dining experience to remember, whether you want a change from the hustle and bustle of the city, or just need a seriously good seafood feast.
Overview
Melbourne may not be well known for seaside dining; however, a few notable exceptions stand out. Set on the St Kilda foreshore, Donovans, an enduring Melbourne icon, is one of those beachside venues that dispel the myth that you can't have good food alongside a good view.
Self-described as a 'house on the beach', Donovans is warm and welcoming, comfortable and cosy. The space feels well-worn, in the best way possible, like you can feel the legacy of all those diners (many of whom are regulars) who have sat at the same table, pondered over the same glorious view, and savoured their memorable meal before you.
Nick Parkhouse is the man who leads the charge at Donovans these days. "I've been working at Donovans for well over ten years and I [was] honoured to have the baton handed over to me [when] I purchased Donovans from Kevin and Gail [Donovan] two years ago. It's a restaurant I fell in love with first dining in over 20 years ago, and I'm proud to be the custodian to continue its legacy for another 30-plus years, and more."
There is a wholesome, family feel to the venue, a sense that the staff, whether it's the kitchen crew or the reservations and front-of-house team, are happy to have chosen this place to spend their days honing their craft. It may also have something to do with the calming benefits of gazing out at the glimmering sea all day.
Donovans, as you'd expect from a restaurant that has stood the test of time (it's been serving Melburnians since 1995), has signature menu items whose reputation precedes it. Parkhouse says, "Our menu has long been celebrated with favourites that remain and will never be removed for fear of a revolt."
With the golden sun reflecting off the ocean at sunset, many diners are drawn to the high-quality seafood dishes that feature prominently on the menu. Whether you go for fresh or tempura oysters, crayfish with finger lime and avocado, the day's crudo selection, or octopus with nduja, you'll be off to a flying start. Choosing between the spanner crab ravioli and the seafood linguine isn't easy, and deciding whether to stick with seafood for your mains or move to meat is no easier.
Back to the signature menu items, several Donovans' dishes are legendary around town. The old-fashioned chicken pie, with a crispy pastry lid, has kept regulars coming back for decades. As have the crunchy classic beer-battered fish and chips, the in-house smoked salmon with blinis and creme fraiche, and the charcoal-cooked 500-gram T-bone steak.
Ahead of its 30th anniversary, Donovans is adding more seats to the table with a beautiful new dining room — set to open on Friday, November 27 — offering enviable views over Port Phillip Bay. While the new room will have its own entrance, it's still meant to feel part of the main restaurant, with the same floor team, kitchen, and warm, personal service regulars return time and time again for.
In its current form, Donovans comfortably hosts intimate private meals for 12 in its library and small gatherings for 24 in its private dining room. The new addition, which seats 45 guests, will meet long-standing requests for a larger private space without having to hire out the whole main restaurant.
"We're so excited to build on the legacy that is Donovans; the family is growing, slowly and thoughtfully," says proprietor Nick Parkhouse.
Donovans is a dining experience to remember. Whether you want a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, want to feel part of Melbourne's hospitality history, or have something to celebrate, head to this beachside venue that feels like home. And speaking of celebrating, no occasion is complete without the inimitable Bombe Alaska for two, with chocolate hazelnut ice cream and toasted meringue.
Images: Supplied.
