Overview
When it comes to creating smash-hit venues, legendary chef Andrew McConnell knows what's what. He's the mind behind favourites like Cumulus Inc, Cutler & Co, Supernormal and Marion, to name a few. In July 2020, Melbourne scored another McConnell original when he opened Gimlet — a cocktail bar and restaurant in the CBD's 1920s heritage building Cavendish House.
Sydney-based architecture and design studio Acme (The Grounds Of Alexandria, Charlie Parker's and Watsons Bay Boutique Hotel) is behind the fit-out, which sees this historic building filled with black and gold marble bars, leather booths, geometric tiles and honeycomb chandeliers inspired by famed Italian architect Carlo Scarpa.
Gimlet's signature Gimlet, by Jo Mcgann
Split into four spaces — a cocktail bar, an elegant clothed-table restaurant on the upper level, a 12-person private dining area and a more casual space on the lower level — the restaurant feels like a very elegant French bistro. And the food echoes this.
The menu makes its way from oysters and caviar to raw tuna with anchovy and smoked chilli, and duck liver parfait with pickled green almonds. The food is "leaning on Europe and America, a bit of old world mixed with new world sensibility"- and, like the space, it's also a little bit indulgent. Expect caviar, champagne and truffles aplenty. Certain mainstay menu items have become crowd favourites over the years, and for good reason. The Southern Rock lobster baked in saffron rice is a showstopping dish that continues to delight diners again and again.
As the year draws to a close, and that warm, spirited feeling fills the streets of Melbourne, Gimlet also celebrates the summer season. "The end of the year is a moment we look forward to. Melbourne leans into its holiday rhythm, and long summer afternoons are spent with friends and family," says McConnell and McGann.
Flirtatious and luxurious dishes have been added to the menu that evoke the holiday spirit. Mildura peaches are poached with vanilla and verbena, before being flambéd tableside with butter and cognac. They are scooped up alongside a generous slice of chiffon cake, house-made amaretti biscuits, French vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of bright peach syrup.
Going into summer, you'll also be able to try Gimlet's dry-aged duck crown, scented with maple, fennel and coriander seeds, served up alongside juicy mulberries and radicchio. Or go for the coral trout, which is grilled over charcoal and served with a Sicilian-style salmoriglio and aioli.
And while you're at it, don't forget to pop into Apollo Inn next door (well, if you can snag a seat that is). The cavernous space provides relief from the humidity outside and a sense of tranquillity among the holiday chaos. It might be the silly season, but Apollo Inn are now serving a very serious trio of martinis. For just $45, you can select three varieties to sample that are served half the size and twice as cold. If there are many other ideal and enviable ways to spend an unhurried afternoon during the summer break, we can't seem to think of them at this point.
Jo McGann
Top images: Earl Carter and Sharyn Cairns
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