Global ramen chain Hakata Gensuke has legions of Melbourne fans thanks to its long-standing Russell Street digs, and things have only grown since it extended itself to the QV, Doncaster — and Hawthorn.

Glenferrie Road might be thick with eateries but Hakata is a welcome and busy stop, opening in 2015 and quickly carving out a reputation for some of the city's best and queues to match the bold claims.

Industrial in setting but welcoming in service — and warming in soup — the pick over here is the black tonkotsu ($15). Chockablock with fried garlic, black sesame paste, black fungus, and spring onions, the beauty is in the balance of the garnishes.