Lagotto

They nailed the contemporary wine bar brief with their Collingwood corner gem, Congress, then delivered design-driven mod-Japanese at Richmond's Future Future. Now, the siblings behind Milieu Hospitality have their shifted focus to Italy, for their all-day Northside haunt Lagotto.

In the space below the group's residential development Nth Fitzroy by Milieu, Katie and Michael McCormack have created a destination for all occasions, with an influence that's undeniably Italian — a contemporary restaurant, wine bar and food store.

Anson Smart

Inside, design work by Flack Studio nods to those European sensibilities, boasting a charming assembly of glossy burgundy accents, sweeping curves, marble-topped benches and blush-hued terrazzo flooring.

With Matteo Fulchiati (Osteria Ilaria) now at the helm, the kitchen's paying homage to timeless Italian flavours while showcasing plenty of creative spirit.

That means you're in for small plates like wholemeal focaccia paired with smoked malted butter ($8), kingfish with saffron water and finger lime ($24), and a tartare finished with rhubarb and horseradish ($24).

Jana Langhorst

Handmade pasta is a must-try; maybe in the form of lemon spaghettoni with Queensland scampi and bottarga ($42) or campanelle teamed with an oxtail ragu and confit chilli ($38). And feast-worthy mains might include the likes of swordfish cotoletta matched with wild garlic and charred lemon ($43), and a wagyu scotch fillet with chicory and egg yolk ($48).

Team it all with a drop from the tidy wine list heroing plenty of minimal intervention pours, the growing selection of amaro, or Euro-centric cocktails like the signature winter negroni ($25).

And, if you'd like to take home more than just memories, check out the provedore and wine store — a retail corner filled with pantry essentials, take-home feasts and reasonably priced vino.

Jana Langhorst

Jana Langhorst

Top Images: Parker Blain and Anson Smart