Overview
The minds behind Terror Twilight, Convoy, Tinker and Hi-Fi — Ben Argentino, Bec Moore and Kieran Spiteri — know how to cafe. They've figured out the magic algorithm to make a successful breakfast and lunch spot, and are now taking it one step further with Ophelia.
Here, right on the Westgarth end of Northcote's High Street, the team runs Ophelia as a somewhat classic cafe in the morning before switching things up as the day goes on — becoming more of a wine bar and long lunch destination.
In the morning, you'll find Euro-leaning dishes like the savoury buckwheat galette layered with roast zucchini, buffalo milk ricotta, rocket pepita pesto, aleppo pepper and nigella seeds; staropolska sausage served with mustard-braised cabbage, relish, pickled wildwood fennel and a fried egg; and a caramelised milk loaf sitting on a bed of citrus curd and topped with spiced cardamom sugar, orange and mint. You can also keep it super simple by just getting two eggs on Iris toast, served with relish, cultured butter and dressed salad leaves.
As 11am rolls around, a few more dishes join the fold. These include a barramundi rillette with rye toast, smoked mustard and pickles, and a panko chicken thigh with caper honey mustard, radicchio, endive, manchego and charred leek salt. There's also a ploughman's platter that comes with pickles, market cheese and cold cuts from Savour and Grace.
A cabinet full of takeaway goodies also features throughout the day, full of cakes, pastries, salads and sandwiches.
The team describes the menu as not quite being a classic breakfast nor your usual lunch, but instead filling the space between these mealtimes. You can mix and match dishes from both sections of the menu to create something that more closely resembles whatever dining situation you prefer — either pairing it with coffee, house sodas, cocktails, mocktails or wine.
Much like its siblings, Ophelia also has a strong focus on vinyl. Music is chosen from the floor-to-ceiling record wall, and is played from open to close. Right now, the doors shut at 4pm every vday of the week, but the crew is planning to launch a nighttime offering in summer — leaning even further into those wine bar vibes.
Images: Dave Green.
