Acclaimed chef Donovan Cooke is offering up a modern riff on classic French flavours.
October 19, 2017
Few of today's new restaurants boast the same kind of pedigree as Fitzroy North's establishment, Ryne. Making its home within a smart, 60-seat space on St George's Road, the fine diner is Donovan Cooke's latest venture, the trailblazing chef behind such culinary greats like Est Est Est and seafood-focused Crown restaurant The Atlantic. He's joined forces with long-time colleague and friend Alex Law (The Atlantic, The Royal Hong Kong Jockey Club) to deliver a contemporary take on classic French fare.
Named for an Anglo-Saxon word referring to a course that's continuously moving forwards, Ryne offers Cooke the chance to return to his favourite kind of work, crafting honest yet refined dishes within an intimate setting.
Open only for dinner, Ryne keeps the decision-making to a minimum, offering simply a two-course ($65), three-course ($80) and seven-course ($150) tasting menu. The starting lineup is one big celebration of spring, featuring plates like smoked rainbow trout with dashi-infused daikon and horseradish, and marron scented with orange and teamed with a pea pannacotta.
Meanwhile, the wine list is geared towards small producers, pulling together a thoughtful mix of international and local gems. And because you like cheap booze and Ryne is all about giving you what you want, the restaurant has a great happy hour. It serves up a whole heap of really affordable drinks, including $10 Aperol and Campari spritzes, $10 glasses of prosecco, $8 glasses of red and white wine, and $6 Peroni Reds and Coopers pale ales. The best part? It runs from the very respectable time of 6–8pm, Wednesday and Thursday, and from Friday to Sundays it goes for three whole hours — from 3–6pm. Find more info here.
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