The team behind beloved Surry Hills wine bar Mille Vini has arrived in the city with Rovollo, an all-day Italian restaurant and wine room on the ground floor of 25 Martin Place. Rovollo has been designed to whisk you straight to the Amalfi Coast — or at least a swanky Roman supper club — via a 75-seat space that blends golden-age glamour with old-school hospitality. It all takes place under a ten-metre-long, hand-painted ceiling mural; a dramatic lighting pendant fashioned by artist Moya Delaney from an old parachute; and, of course, the shadows of Harry Seidler's iconic modernist monolith. It's a maximalist space with maximalist flavours. The menu, overseen by Executive Chef Cami Feliciano (ex-Seta) and Head Chef Zane Buchanan (ex-Clam Bar, Fish Butchery) veers between classics done well — think snacky Italian starters like arancini, burrata and house focaccia — and more opulent options, like seafood towers stacked with oysters, crab, prawns and sashimi. All pasta is handmade daily, though none are perhaps as theatrical as the signature pici carbonara, set alight tableside before being tossed through a parmigiano-reggiano cheese wheel and topped with a freshly cracked egg. When in season, you can also add a fresh shaving of Australian black truffle to any dish of your choice. There's a spotlight on large-format proteins here as well, with the likes of wagyu rump cap and whole market fish grilled to order and served with your choice of sauce. Desserts follow a similarly 'more is more' philosophy — the panna cotta is finished with limoncello and burnt honey, while a towering 24-layer dark chocolate cake is served with a warm rosemary-infused berry compote. Drinks are just as transportive. The 250-strong wine list features bold Italian picks, Australian varietals and champagne, while the cocktail menu — designed by award-winning bartender Alissa Gabriel — has been designed as a journey through Italy in seven sips, from the citrusy Amalfi with its blue-hued salted limoncello foam to the pizza-oven warmth of the martini-style Napoli, lifted with charred focaccia vermouth, burrata whey, basil and tomato oil. Image credit Food images: Nshot Creative Cocktail and venue images: Christian Michael Photography
