Stagger Lee's

Overview

One might say Fitzroy needs not another cafe from the same old mould, that Stagger Lee's doesn't offer anything revolutionary, but still that hasn't stopped the hordes from filling this place every day of the week. Because this is Melbourne; we're fickle with our cafes, and if you throw us something shiny and new, with great coffee, a solid menu and some delicious menu surprises.

Truffled cream corn with king mushrooms and asparagus on toast is one of the heroes. We also can't stop thinking about the roasted nectarines served with a big ball of burrata, pickled beets and hazelnuts.

From the people responsible for popular Collingwood coffee haunt, Proud Mary, Stagger Lee's sits on a section of Brunswick Street in which stalwart Atomica has held a coffee monopoly for some time. And rivalling its neighbour in the latte stakes, it does. With single origin espresso, filter and cold drip varieties on offer, you're assured a good-tasting brew — just as the Proud Mary faithful would expect from this experienced crew.

Situated on a sunny corner, with outdoor seating and large retractable glass walls that open the space up and drench the large communal table with fresh air and sunshine when fully opened, the layout is smart and highly conducive to whiling away a few hours of a warm morning.

A brief but appealing menu features muesli, eggs and a couple of gourmet surprises for brunch, along with baguettes, a mammoth fried buttermilk chicken burger and healthier dishes — think seasonal vege and grain bowls and granola — served all day.

A short wine, beer and cocktail list for 'those' Friday lunches adds to the well-rounded offering. The baked goods are interesting too: peanut butter and jelly tarts, cold drip and chocolate doughnuts and lavender and passionfruit lamingtons are among the treats you may spy sitting innocently at the counter.

While it's all served on of-the-moment turquoise and white ceramics and in an atmosphere of wooden bench seats, exposed brick walls and industrial pendant lights, there is enough of the good stuff here to excuse the trite. Actually, substitute 'good' with 'great' and there's no denying that Stagger Lee's significantly bolsters Fitzroy's impressive dining landscape.

Updated May, 2023.

Appears in:

The 13 Best Cafes in Melbourne for 2023