Suze
This North Fitzroy neighbourhood hangout is the kind of place Melbourne always does so well — grounded, generous and effortlessly cool.
Overview
Suze might just be the ne plus ultra of Melbourne wine bars — the kind of place that balances quiet confidence with warm hospitality. This moody North Fitzroy hangout unfolds across two levels of a historic building on Newry Street, and makes smart use of its deceptively expansive space. Downstairs, you'll find seats at the concrete-topped bar and cosy banquettes as well as sun-washed al fresco spots, while a lively open kitchen overlooks the snug dining room upstairs. It's effortlessly stylish but never stiff.
That's in no small part down to its owners. Giulia Giorgetti and Steve Harry — partners in life and now in business — have worked at some of the country's most beloved venues (like Gimlet, Marion, Auterra and Napier Quarter, among others), and their shared love of good food, great wine and unfussy service is the heartbeat of Suze.
The wine program covers a fair amount of territory, with a thoughtful mix of Italian, French, Spanish, Australian and Victorian bottles. There's a strong pour-without-pretension energy here — staff are just as happy suggesting a punchy pét-nat as they are pouring something more traditional. A selection of vermouths, spritzes and aperitifs — including the French aperitif from which the venue gets its name — rounds out the drinks menu, while nodding to the venue's European sensibilities.
In the kitchen, Steve and his team work closely with local suppliers like Day's Walk Farm and Somerset Heritage Produce to deliver produce-driven dishes. The seasonally evolving menu caters to both the sip-and-snack crowd and those who want to linger a little longer — it might feature creative small plates like crapaudine beetroot with hazelnut and wattleseeds or a daily house-made ricotta with persimmon and pepper berry, alongside larger serves like whole flounder with bone marrow and capers, and Aylesbury dry-aged duck, inca berry and erbette.
Whether you're here for a pre-dinner drink or settling in for a long night with a mate (or a date), Suze feels like the kind of place Melbourne always does so well — grounded, generous and effortlessly cool.
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