Thy Thy Counter and Canteen

Located in the heart of Victoria Street — affectionately known as Melbourne's Little Vietnam — Thuy Lu and Thy Vo's new casual mod-Viet restaurant has quite the family history. The sisters' parents Trang Le and Van Ho opened both the original Thy Thy and Thy Thy 2 on Victoria Street in the 80s, and Thy Thy Counter and Canteen now sits in the very same corner site that once housed their third venture, Tho Tho.

This new incarnation celebrates the family's South Vietnamese heritage, while also embracing other regional flavours encountered on more recent trips through the country's north. In the role of head chef, Mum Le is deftly blending the traditional with the modern, with plenty of long-held family recipes getting a spin. It's all being plated up in a light-filled, minimalist space, featuring a contemporary mix of polished concrete floors and generous pops of colour.

Classics are in strong supply on the menu, with options like bo bop thau (wagyu beef salad) ($22), banh hoi (rice vermicelli cake) ($18–20), Vietnamese-style slaws and a range of goi cuon (rice paper rolls) ($12). You'll find a swag of stir-frys, vermicelli bowls and signature rice dishes, while a special beef pho ($14) heads the selection of noodle soups. Wash down your feed with a Vietnamese 333 Beer ($9), a local wine, or perhaps a sweet Viet-style coffee ($6).

Keep an eye out for a weekly-changing lineup of specials, too — think, bun bo hue (Hue-style spicy beef noodle soup), traditional broths and a rotation of banh mi rolls.

Pete Dillon

Images: Pete Dillon