On Top of the Country: How to Explore Australia's Highest Altitude Ski Village From Sunrise to Sunset

This charming alpine village sits on top of the country, and is truly a one-of-a-kind destination.
Kosa Monteith
Published on July 13, 2023

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Yearning to get a taste of proper winter? White snow, sharp alpine air, rugging up in a big coat with a hot mug of something decadent? Or maybe you're restless and keen for a change of pace, whooshing down hills and through forests on skis, snowboards or even sleds. Well, you don't have to go far to make your ski-life dreams come true. Mt Hotham is Australia's highest alpine village and the best-kept secret of the snowfields.

Just under five hours' drive from Melbourne, this tucked-away spot offers a winter wonderland of powdery slopes, vibrant après ski culture and magnificent natural beauty, with high mountain ranges and snow gum forests all around. By day, explore the vast trails of ski runs for every level, and get out on snowshoe tours and husky sled adventures. By night enjoy fondue and mulled wine under the stars or burgers, beer and DJ sets. Whatever way you holiday, there's a perfect escape waiting at Mt Hotham — we've planned a getaway that'll make you feel on top of the world.

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MORNING: BREAKFAST AT THE BIRD, THEN HIT THE SLOPES

The early bird catches the cafe breaky. The Bird is an unfussy, rustic lodge-style spot. Located next to the Summit chairlift, it should be your first stop of the day before hitting the slopes. Start off with something hearty, like the Big Breaky Burger, scrambled tofu burrito or classic fry-up, or opt for something lighter like granola and yogurt or smashed avo on cornbread toast (it's not that far from Melbourne, after all). For something a bit different, warm up with an aromatic, mushroomy breakfast pho or a rich, comforting tagine with eggs. If you're peckish later, it's also open for lunch and light afternoon snacks — lemon and saffron arancini and gooey baked brie. The perfect après ski treat. Perk up with a hot espresso coffee or kick back with a selection of beers, wines and cider.

HIT THE SUMMIT, THEN HEAD TO ROAD RUNNER OR HEAVENLY VALLEY

Once you've fuelled up for your adventure, it's time to carve up the slopes. Mt Hotham's elevation provides a much more reliable powder and snowfall in the winter. If you are a novice snow bunny or just need to brush up on the basics, then the easy slopes of The Summit are the place to start. Whereas, Heavenly Valley offers some of the best moderate and advanced runs for those with a bit more skill who want to cut some serious tracks in the snow, swooping through gum tree terrain and making the most of the momentum on the slopes. For more black diamond runs, take the Road Runner chairlift to Beauchamps, Lower Sun Run, Lower Wendix and Upper Wendix. Head out early straight after breakfast so you have ample time and more space to yourself.

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AFTERNOON: LUNCH AT HOFF HUT, THEN PREPARE FOR SLEDDING

Take the Heavenly Valley chairlift to the top of Black Snake and you'll find Hoff Hut, a charming stone-walled nook amidst some incredible mountain scenery. Built in 1949, this little piece of Mt Hotham history was transformed into a ski-in ski-out cafe in 2019. It's got everything you need to warm up and refuel after a morning on the slopes: hot, flaky pies and sausage rolls, wings hot from the outdoor BBQ smoker, comforting daily soup with buttered bread and its famous fresh jam doughnuts. Snuggle up to a hot chocolate, coffee or sweet mulled wine or relax with a cool beer. Sit on the outdoor deck to enjoy the view, gazing down the valley and watching the skiers whizz by. It's open 7 days a week, all snow season.

STRAP IN FOR A HOWLING HUSKY SLED DOG TOUR

Rug up and slide through a snow gum wonderland of the alpine bush in a genuine dogsled. Howling Husky Sled Dog Tours are more than just a cool way of getting around — each of the Siberian Huskies pulling you along your little adventure is full of personality, and so darn cute. They're trained for pulling freight, not racing, so it's a steady pace rather than an adrenaline ride.

Choose from three tour types: The 30-minute Polar Paws Express is an easy little jaunt, while the Stumpy Tailed Trail takes 1 hour and 15 minutes along the looped trails of Hotham where you can head uphill and learn some local history — and maybe take a turn at driving the sled yourself. The Winter Dreams Family Tour is 2 hours and 15 minutes, where you learn commands for guiding the huskies, as well as a local history lesson. All three include the most important activity: husky-hugging time. Book ahead, it's obviously very popular.

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NIGHT: ENJOY PROPER APRÈS SKI AT MISS MARY'S

The fun doesn't stop when the sun goes down. Downstairs at Hotham Central, you'll find Miss Mary's, a stylish and lively little spot open from 11.30am until late into the evening. But don't go expecting standard alpine fare: it's all Asian fusion. Snack on steamed gyoza, ika karaage and edamame with Szechuan salt, or go for something more substantial like tonkotsu ramen, chicken yakitori, ginger and sesame ceviche, Thai pumpkin and coconut curry or Vietnamese caramelised pork belly.

It's all perfectly complemented by their signature cocktail list, featuring original riffs like the Vietnamese espresso martini, a Sünching bloody mary with gochujang and sriracha, pandan colada and yuzu mojito. Bright and flavourful, zesty and zingy — who says après ski fare has to be heavy? Plus, there are tap beers, a fridge of crafties and a solid Australian wine list.

PARTY INTO THE MORNING AT JACK FROST

Jack Frost is your ski-town party spot in Davenport Village, Mt Hotham, open daily from 4pm–1am. There's neon, a dancefloor, DJ sessions and $1 wings every day. What more could you want? Drinks. Well, there are beers, wines and a special High Country Negroni and famous Hot Buttered Whiskey — a take on a hot buttered rum, perfect after a day spent in the snow. When the hunger hits, there's an eclectic offering to suit every craving, from adobo jackfruit tacos with mezcal spiked slaw to a candied Satan bacon cheeseburger, spiced beef brisket with yuzu verde and whiskey pickled zucchini and, of course, chicken parma with a house-made Napoli sauce. Flavourful and filling. It's a place the locals love, where visitors are always welcome.

ENJOY THE MOUNTAIN AIR AT ALPINE NATURE EXPERIENCE

These eco-tours offer a snow experience unlike any other. For one, Alpine Nature Experience is the only place in Australia that can give you a night in a genuine snow igloo. Take a sunset snowshoe tour to the little purpose-built eco-village of snowdomes, igloos and hypedomes. Enjoy a dinner of French fondue in the firelight and rug up in blankets under the stars with homemade mulled wine. Sleep in the tranquillity of alpine nature, then wake to a hot breakfast and leave your splendid seclusion with a skidoo tour back to civilisation.

Don't want to spend the night? Just take the evening tour, with a 3-course dinner in the communal tipi. Alpine Nature Experience offers other experiences throughout the season. Take a skidoo to a private hot tub in the snow, enjoy a feast of raclette cheese and watch the sunset in the hot tub with a bottle of bubbly. Or take a wine and cheese pairing course with a snowshoe tour.

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All this and more can be found in Mt Hotham, Australia's alpine wonderland. To find out more and start planning your trip, visit the website

Published on July 13, 2023 by Kosa Monteith
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