Overview
Geelong may not strike you as an obvious destination for a weekend away. The small port city is currently straddling that awkward growth stage between small town and bustling metropolis. As such, it manages to feel like both. Although Geelong wears the vestments of a big place, it still treats you like a small town would. You don't feel anonymous (an odd feeling for veteran city dwellers) and people look you in the eye while genuinely questioning how you are and what you're doing in town.
Nowhere is this more pronounced than the food and art scene, hidden away on the quiet side streets of the small city. The cheap and abundant studio space makes it a paradise for creatives, weirdos and anyone who errs on the side of the non-commercial — this relatively small pond attracts some remarkably big fish. Some of Melbourne's best foodies, chefs, entrepreneurs and taste-makers have forsaken the big city in favour of a smaller scene where gimmicks are left at the train station and what shines through is something surprisingly authentic.
Leave all that big city pessimism at home and let V/Line (or your car down the M1) carry you to the unexpected cultural oasis of Geelong. Whether you devote your whole weekend to Victoria's second largest city or a few hours on your way down the Great Ocean Road, here's what to do when you get there.
Craft Space
EAT AND DRINK
Before heading down to Geelong, you may want to fast for a few days — there is some serious eating to be done here. Your first port of call should be Craft Space on Little Malop Street. Craft Space is, as the name suggests, a cafe-craft hybrid. You'll find tubs of markers and zines strewn across the mismatched (but colour-coordinated) furniture, a mint green La Marzocco espresso machine filling the back corner and sweet ornaments lining every nook. There's no stone left uncrafted — even the pot plants have been knitted. It's a haven for people who like to occupy their hands while catching up over organic, small batch tea and boutique cakes by Melbourne's Little Bertha. It's a warm little nook and the owners operators Cathy Slarks and Loretta Davis are the kindling in the hearth. The welcoming pair also run craft workshops most weekends and make a mean, towering chocolate milkshake.
Hot Chicken Project
Once night falls it's just a hop, skip and a jump over the way to the Hot Chicken Project for dinner and a bit of atmosphere. Hot tip: undo your pants as you walk through the door (no one will judge). You may feel a sense of déjà vu as you glance the menu as HCP is owned by Aaron Turner, who previously engineered Belle's Hot Chicken on Gertrude Street. The menu is conceptually similar – a hero serve of southern fried chicken (as spicy as you can handle) and a down-home side (think turnips, greens and coleslaw) for $16.
The simplicity of the menu works in its favour as the entire wine list is paired for salt, crunch and spice. It's dominated by light, fruity wines from some of Australian's most innovative winemakers — and if you're not literate in wine speak, your best bet is to ask a staff member to choose a wine for you. They know their stuff. We highly, highly recommend indulging in a side of the crispy chicken skin (drizzled in honey, hot sauce and thyme) because you will see God. The place is usually buzzing on the weekend, and with plans to expand into the next shop front, HCP can only get better with time. If you're hankering for a cold one after that, drop into the Little Creatures Geelong Brewery for one straight from the source.
Freckleduck
The final must-eat destination on your Geelong tour is Freckleduck. The sweet corner café is light, airy and — dare we say it — produces the best coffee in Geelong. The pumpkin smash, served with tortillas, roasted pepitas, fresh asparagus, onion jam and prosciutto ($17) is a salty, sweet and crunchy affair and absolute heaven on a plate. They've just announced plans for a brother venue in Belmont, so we're clearly not the only ones feeling it.
Lola's Kitchen at Boom Gallery
SEE AND DO
Geelong's art scene is intimate. There aren't new openings every night of the week with free flowing Champagne and lines around the block full of hungry young social climbers desperate to be seen; instead, it's more of a community of makers, painters and creatives who quietly and rigorously curate thoughtful and provocative shows. That's what first strikes you as you enter a Geelong gallery — the exhibitions have been created by locals, for locals. And secondly, you might be a little surprised at how many of them there are. There's a lot more art galleries nestled in Geelong than meets the eye — you'll find them hidden in quiet corners, behind demure shopfronts and residing in rustic warehouses.
Boom Gallery should be your first stop. From the centre of town, grab an Uber (yes, Geelong has Uber) out to the Rutland Street address and make your way down the row of warehouses to the end. The gallery itself is curated by Ren Inei, whose name you may recognise from some of the works on the walls. They just wrapped up a phenomenal show about local legend William Buckley (of the saying 'Buckley's chance') and one called PLAY, a unique exhibition by Melbourne furniture designers Dowel Jones that encourages attendees to play with their creations. Inei may be a curator, but his attitude is more docent — turn up on any day of the week and you'll likely find him getting amongst it, hanging out with exhibiting artists in the café, chatting with visitors and giving personal insights on the show.
Boom also has a small, chic café attached the gallery space named Lola's Kitchen which serves up bite-sized tacos and smooth coffee. For details on current and upcoming exhibitions, go here.
Boom Gallery
The National Wool Gallery in the centre of town is another must-do. While the museum is housed in the former Dennys Lascelles wool store and chronicles the history of Australian wool in more detail than strictly necessary, the space also hosts some amazing (and random) exhibitions, including the current Wildlife of Gondwana. While you're in the city centre, make sure you stop in at the Geelong Gallery too, a stately old building which has enough clout to host the bigwigs of Australian and international fame. The current exhibition — Land of the Golden Fleece, running until June 13 — is a retrospective of one of the big names in Australian landscape impressionism, Arthur Streeton. The exhibition is beautifully curated and as much about Streeton's life as it is about his works.
If you don't want to leave without a souvenir, make your way our to the Mill Markets. They're a little way out of town, but if you've got a car (or just a strong will for vintage shopping) it's well worth trekking to. It's a two-storey veritable paradise of vintage clothes, books, antiques and weird shit, and your bound to find something to at least consider buying. But if you're worn out with food, art and busyness, a picnic basket and veg out session in the lush Johnstone Park is the perfect way to round out your stay.
LET'S DO THIS; GIVE ME THE DETAILS
Geelong is about one hour from Melbourne. You can drive (the M1 makes it a cinch) or take a V/Line train from Southern Cross to Geelong Station. The city isn't bursting with hotels, but the Mercure Geelong is situated in the centre of town and Airbnb is (as always) your friend.
Imogen Baker travelled as a guest of Tourism Greater Geelong & the Bellarine. Top image: Little Creatures Geelong Brewery.