The Less Obvious Guide to Kraków

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Kraków makes for an enriching stopover if you're travelling through Europe on an extended trip. Though the city carries a notoriously sombre history, Kraków is an endlessly charming and friendly place to visit with plenty to discover. On the long list of eye-opening sights, expect castles and churches in the medieval Old Town, lush parks and bike paths, as well as Oskar Schindler's famous Enamel Factory and the Nazi concentration camp at Auschwitz-Birkenau.

There's no shame in following the well-worn tourist route — but when your feet are weary, the crowd fatigue starts to set in or you simply wish to do as the Cracovians do, consult this list of less obvious activities in Kraków. In partnership with Topdeck, here's the instalment of our Less Obvious city guides. Episode four: Kraków.

SAMPLE LOCAL FOOD TRUCKS IN THE JEWISH QUARTERS

Venture south of the Old Town and you will wander into Kraków's historic Jewish Quarters. Once an independent town, Kazimeirz is a bustling and bohemian neighbourhood packed with synagogues, bars, cafés, food trucks and street art. Sample some of the local food truck delicacies, like polish fries or pierogi (a type of Polish dumpling) and take yourself on a street art tour. In between cobbled laneways and quaint courtyards, the area has an eye-catching range of murals, some of which commemorate the displaced Jewish community and former inhabitants.

HIDE FROM THE CROWDS AT MASSOLIT BOOKS & CAFÉ

On the outskirts of the Old Town you will come across Massolit Books & Café, a cosy place to whittle away an afternoon. This English language bookstore is stocked with an impressive range of literature. Although they specialise in Eastern and Central European literature, you'll find everything from classic and contemporary fiction through to politics, poetry and philosophy. They also host events such as literary readings, lectures and political discussions (though these are mainly in Polish). Settle down with some baked goods and a cup of coffee and enjoy hiding from the crowds for a little while.

Pierogi (polish dumplings).

DEVOUR HOME-STYLE POLISH CUISINE IN THE CITY'S MILK BARS

Poland's milk bars are an easy way to avoid tourist traps. These unique and unassuming cafés were established as early as 1897, but became popular as government-subsidised worker's canteens in the Communist era. Typically, the menu is short and simple, consisting of pierogi (those Polish dumplings again), omelettes, goulash and potato pancakes. It's deliciously hearty, authentic and affordable Polish fare. Some old fashioned milk bars have recently been revitalised, such as Milkbar Tomasza in the Old Town which has a more modern touch. On the other hand, Bar Mleczny in Nowa Huta hasn't changed since the '70s.

TRAVEL BACK IN TIME TO NOWA HUTA

For an alternative spin on the city, take the tram out to Nowa Huta in Eastern Kraków. Funded by the Soviet Union and built in the architectural style of socialist realism post WWII, the area was envisaged as a utopian testament to the humble proletariat. It was also the site of many protests and solidarity movements during the dying days of Communism. These days, you can find historical remnants, such as the Ludowy (People's) Theatre and the Arka Pana church. It's an interesting place to visit — just a short tram ride from Kraków's city centre, but what feels like a completely different place.

GET CULTURED AT BUNKIER SZTUKI

While the monumental Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK) is probably the cultural kingpin of Kraków, Bunkier Sztuki offers something slightly different. Burrowed in the lush gardens encasing the Old Town, this cutting-edge institution is fringed with a little café and publishing house. With a focus on innovative multimedia, the gallery spans three levels and features emerging and lesser-known artists, mainly from Poland and Eastern Europe.

QUENCH YOUR THIRST AT HOUSE OF BEER

While Poland is more famous for vodka than beer, House of Beer is a fun and relaxing place to sample a hefty range of brews, particularly after traipsing up and down cobbled streets. Many of the drafts come from small to medium-sized breweries across Poland, Germany, Lithuania and Ukraine. The knowledgeable staff will give you some pointers and knock together a tasting paddle. You can also curl your mitts around a mulled wine in winter.

HANG OUT WITH HIPSTERS AT FORUM PRZESTRZENIE

The Brutalist silhouette of the Forum Przestrzenie looms large over the Vistula River. Once a major drawcard, the Communist-era hotel has fallen into disrepair. However, it has been repurposed as a vibrant hub of cultural activity – there are a cluster of clubs, workshops, bars and art galleries surrounding it. As there's plenty of space for diversity and reinvention, it's always changing. Grab a beer and a deck chair by the river at dusk, and then explore some of the nightclubs once you're acquainted with the area.

EAT ZAPIEKANKA IN KAZIMEIRZ

This historic round building nestled in the heart of Kazimeirz (in Old Town) contains a number of food stalls. Built in 1900, Okraglak in Plac Nowy is a popular market square where many of the vendors sell zapiekanka, a Polish-style snack featuring your choice of topping on half a baguette. It's insanely cheap and filling, making for a satisfying stomach-liner before sampling some of Kraków's nearby nightlife. The locals have their personal preferences; however Endzior seems to be a firm favourite.

ADMIRE AWARD-WINNING DESIGN AT THE MALOPOLSKA GARDEN OF ART

This recent addition to Kraków's cultural landscape is renowned for its innovative architecture. Boasting a multifunctional space, the structure is sleek and skeletal – casting sharp, geometrical shadows across the street. Out the front you will see a garden with a scattering of benches and a maple tree in the middle. There's a theatre, library and exhibition centre to explore once you're inside, and plenty of festivals and events are hosted here, so you'll always have somewhere to go if you come across a spare moment on your Kraków adventure.

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