Since renowned chef Rosheen Kaul opened her most recent venture, Little Rose, on Brunswick Street in Fitzroy several months ago, the place has been buzzing, with seats snapped up as quickly as they became available. The French-Asian bistro pop-up proved so popular that what was supposed to be a limited run has been extended into a permanent stay. Little Rose made its home in the cosy, familiar space that belonged to Alta Trattoria and, more recently, to Pipi's North and Ragazzi Residenza pop-ups three months ago. "After several years of Alta, it's been great to transition the venue and see how it can be transformed time after time," say operators James Tait and Luke Drum. From August 20, Little Rose will make its stay permanent, with Kaul taking her pride of place in the kitchen for the long haul. The space will close for a fortnight, allowing time for a quick, updated fitout inspired by Belle Époque Parisian cafés and 1920s Shanghai salons, with Art Deco and Chinoiserie influences throughout. Kaul says of the design, think "romantic nostalgia through a slightly surreal lens." Kaul's playful menu, grounded in the philosophy of Chinoiserie, "A whimsical, vibrant, European interpretation of Asian culture," will be extended when the spot reopens. Dishes that have been met with immense applause during its residency, namely French bistro classics reimagined with Asian influences, will become mainstays too. Those who have managed to snag a seat already will be thrilled that the pomme puree with crab roe and Chaozhou-style vin jaune will return. A signature caviar service will also be introduced, where traditional accompaniments are amped up with crispy chicken skin and battered spring onions. All served up on vintage cast-iron candelabras, it's a classic example of Kaul's philosophy: "where luxury is never taken too seriously, and tradition is always open to reinterpretation." Acclaimed mixologist Joe Jones is serving up a rotating list of subtly reworked classic drinks, such as a gin and tonic with dandelion gin, green apple, and celery tonic. Jones says, "The martini is a minimal, interpretive drink you can spin in countless ways. It's a drink you can't hide behind — it takes a lifetime to master." His version at Little Rose is made with London Dry Gin, chrysanthemum vermouth, fino sherry and a coconut water dilution. "We love venues like France Soir, where everything you need is right there — perfect cocktails, wine, exciting food — and you don't have to leave until they basically kick you out. That's what we're trying to achieve at Little Rose," says Kaul. Images: Arianna Leggiero. Like what you see? Subscribe to the Concrete Playground newsletter to get stories just like these straight to your inbox.
