Overview
Walking into Project Botanicals, you’d be forgiven for thinking you just stumbled into a wedding reception. For the temporary restaurant experience Parnell’s James venue has been given a glitzy makeover, complete with extravagant hanging flower feature, crisp linen tablecloths and shiny fairy light curtain. Thankfully, the cuisine on offer is more fine dining experience than nuptial buffet.
Led by premium gin brand Bombay Sapphire, Project Botanicals is a pop-up bar and restaurant that aims to showcase the aromatic flavours of the spirit in ways other than alongside commonplace unions like tonic and juice. Taking inspiration from the ten exotic botanicals found within Bombay Sapphire – juniper berries, coriander seeds, liquorice, almonds and cassia bark – award-winning bartender Chase Bickerton and O’Connell St Bistro Executive Chef Mark Southon teamed up to create a menu of ten inventive cocktails and equally mouthwatering dishes.
The snapper ceviche starter takes its inspiration from Auckland’s enthusiasm for the ocean, as well as the fragrant aspects of the chief botanical found in Bombay Sapphire: juniper berries. Served alongside green apple, white balsamic, citrus oil and house made ricotta, the entree is a fresh way to begin. It comes paired with a light take on a Bloody Mary - titled ‘The North Wind’, though instead of heavy tomato juice the drink utilises clarified tomato water, made by straining the juice until it runs clear. It’s joined by worchester, Kaitaia Fire, celery bitters and matches with the snapper like you wouldn’t believe. The same goes for the rest of the pairings, proving that Bickerton and Mark Southon truly know what they’re on about.
Second in line was the crayfish ‘sausage roll’ with pineapple salsa. The lively dish was paired with what was the clear-cut drink of the evening. Created by James Millar of The Gin Room, the Casablanca cocktail had a purpose of showing off the coriander botanical. It was well executed through the use of a spiced coriander syrup over a fresh pineapple base with lime juice and mint.
The smoked beef brisket is one for those after something a bit more hearty. Despite being brined in smoked salt, and sous vide for 24 hours, the brisket was drier than expected. It’s given some moisture thanks to small dots of garlic purée, and a kick thanks to the addition of habanero mustard. The paired cocktail in this instance is ‘Neither-oni’. While the mushroom-angled drink may sound unappealing on paper, the earthy tones of the shiitake mushroom tincture manages to cut through without being overpowering - as well as showing off the forest aroma of the angelica root.
For those with a taste for gin, Project Botanicals is worth checking out to simply get an idea of diverse elements that go into making Bombay. The matched dishes are an added bonus and a masterclass in food pairing.
Project Botanicals is open from November 11 - 22.