Bistrot Bisou

Overview

Luke Mangan is well known for serving up classic French cuisine in Sydney — with restaurants in the Hilton Hotel Sydney, Kimpton Margot Hotel Sydney and the Pylon Lookout inside the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

His latest venture Bistrot Bisou follows the same tried-and-tested formula. Mangan has set up a contemporary French restaurant in another city hotel — this time, Melbourne's Hotel Indigo.

Here, you won't find food that challenges or feels particularly playful. Instead, Mangan and his Head Chef Rory Kennedy (Vex Dining and Bar Romantica) have stuck to nailing the classics — think: steak tartare, cheese soufflé, confit duck legs, lobster thermidor, tarte tatin and crème brûlée. There might not be any surprises, but the dishes are executed with great finesse and also showcase top local produce.

The flamed-cooked steaks are a standout. These are cooked in the open kitchen over a roaring fire, which fills the room with a slight smokiness that makes the space feel incredibly cosy and welcoming. Those ready to brave the heat can even sit up at the bar and eat while watching the chefs do their thing.

"We want this to feel like a second home for guests, whether they're Melbourne locals or visitors wanting a relaxed place to dine after a long day of sightseeing," says Mangan.

"The French bistros of Paris have an ambience about them no matter what time of day or night it is, which is what we are creating here."

Glen Percival

And Mangan has lucked out with the 96-seat dining room, which was only fitted out a few years ago for Beso, the former Spanish restaurant that once called this space home. The kitchen is mostly the same as it was before, as is the front bar. The space is full of cream and light brown tones, accented with leather banquette seats and brass finishes. There's also a seperate nook for semi-private dining.

At the front bar, which boasts floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Spencer Street, folks can also sit up on a stool while they sip and snack.

Tim Davey (French Saloon) has created the impressive cocktail list for Bistrot Bisou, which includes eight martinis, plenty of signature creations, and a hefty list of French aperitifs for those wanting a little pre-dinner sip.

As expected, the wine list features a great selection of French and Victorian vinos, while Taittinger Champagne is also available by the glass.

If you're a fan of classic French fare in elegant yet laidback surrounds, you're in for a real treat at Bistrot Bisou.

Images: Jana Langhorst.