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By Libby Curran
February 26, 2020
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Mary's Melbourne

A debaucherous burger joint hidden down a CBD laneway.
By Libby Curran
February 26, 2020
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With four Sydney outposts under their belts, co-owners Jake Smyth and Kenny Graham finally brought their American-style burgers, decadent fried chicken and general loose vibes down south to Melbourne in January 2020. And, unlike their one-day kitchen takeover at Leonard's House of Love and two-month kitchen residency at cocktail bar Fancy Free, this time, it's a permanent fixture.

The CBD venue is Mary's biggest yet, boasting space for 140 punters, a cosy mezzanine level and — perched dramatically from the roof — a supersized, custom wrought-iron chandelier, hung with over 24,000 dead rose stems. You'll find the cavernous space tucked down a laneway, marked simply by a glowing red light.

RC Stills

The brand's grungy, rock 'n' roll attitude is alive and well here, as is that penchant for unapologetically big-flavoured fare and top-notch vino. The menu showcases familiar favourites like the signature Mary's burger, the fried chook and the much-loved mash and gravy, alongside a handful of site-specific creations solely for the Melbourne crowd. In especially happy news for herbivores, a full vegan offering is also being dished up, mirroring the smash-hit plant-based lineup that debuted at Mary's Circular Quay outpost last May.

True to form, there's plenty of love here for excellent wine, with a 100-strong list by much-lauded Mary's wine director Caitlyn Rees. Expect a lineup that's a little bit left-of-centre and very fun, shining a spotlight on the industry's young guns and emerging winemakers.

And, as is custom with a Mary's venue, there's a high-octane soundtrack to help bring it all to life.

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